IIIU 






^ 






1 



Hollinger Corp. 
pH8.5 



SF 465 

.03 

Copy 1 / 



A to Z 



OF 



Pigeons and Bantams 



BY 



FRANK W. DeLANCEY 



ILLUSTRATED 
1910 



^ 



PUBLISHED BY 

ITEM PUBLISHING COMPANY 

SELLERSV^LLE, PA 
Publishers of THE POULTRY ITEM 



E. E. ALTHOUSE 

President and General Manager 
W. S. SCHLICHTER 

Secretary and Treasur.-r 



PKANK VV. DeLANCEY 

Editor and Advertising Manager 
JOHN L. PURPLE 

Associate Editor and Circulation Manager 



J 



COPYRIGHTED BY THE 

ITEM Publishing Company 
1910 



"(gCi.A26:U?4 



) 



\^ 






.^ 




I 



COISTTEH^TS. 



PART I. — i'I(;kons. 

PAGP. 

Advance of the Industry 7 

History and Origin of the Different Varieties 7 

First Step in Squab Culture 7 

Location for Breeding Houses 14 

How to Mate 17 

How to Tell Males from Females 19 

How and When to Feed 20 

What to Feed 21 

System of Feeding 3U 

The Flying or Racing Homer 33 

Training the Flying or Racing Homer 34 

The Show Home- 3 « 

Jacobins , 37 

Fantails 38 

Pouters 40 

Magpies 42 

English Owls 43 

Runts 44 

Archangels 44 

Barb 4 5 

English Carriers 46 

The Antwerp 4G 

Dragoons 48 

Trumpeters 50 

Tumbler 5 

English Turbits 54 

Carneaux 55 

Swallows 5 8 

Satinettes and Blondinettes 58 

Diseases and Their Remedies 59 



PART II. — BANTAMS. 

The Advance of the Industry 63 

Bantams and Bantam Fanciers 64 

Starting in the Fancy 67 

Housing and Mating Bantams 69 

That Bantam House 7 

Breeding Fancy Bantams 7 3 

Variety Bantams 71 

Black and White Rose Combs in 

Sebrights — Golden and Silver 79 

Sebrights and Their Origin 81 

Cuckoo or Scotch Gray Bantams ... 84 

Popularity of Cochin Bantams 86 

Brahma — Booted and Polish Bantams 87, 88 

Japanese Bantams 88 

Game Bantams — Points of Value 89 

A New Variety Game Bantams 91 

Malay Bantams 91 

The Bantam for the Fancier 93 

Different Varieties of Game Bantams 94 

Cleanliness 96 




FRANK W. DELANCEY 



( 



.^1 



m4;t>'U7 



INTRODUCTORY. 



In presenting this book, entitled "A to Z of Pigeons and 
Bantams," I feel positive its contents will be a great assistance 
to the old and experienced and a valuable guide to the novice 
and beginner. It contains information and illustrations that will 
enable the reader to intelligently start in the business and to 
successfully conduct it, along lines that are safe and consistent 
with good business methods. 

For the past several years increased interest has been taken 
in Bantams and Pigeons ; for every dollar that was invested five 
years ago $10 are invested to-day. And for every Bantam and 
Pigeon that was exhibited five years ago there are ten to-day. 
The pleasing part is, the business has been advancing from year 
to year, and will continue to do so. The writer has always 
taken an interest and never lost an opportunity in promoting 
this interest. Hence the presentation of this boiled-down and 
up-to-date booklet, describing and illustrating the different vari- 
eties and how to successfully handle them, and it is the sincere 
wish of the author that this book may increase the interest in 
Pigeons and Bantams. 



■'Ml 



PART I. 



PIGEONS. 

The Advance of the Industry From the Fancy as Well as 
Squab-Producing Birds, 

Several years ago the country had what was called a Pigeon 
craze, and many thousands of peoide who knew nothing about 
the business invested heavily and lost heavily. The result was 
hundreds of thousands of birds were put on the market and 
sold for whatever was offered. The market was flooded and the 
business was looked upon as a farce. But thanks be to the men 
who stood by the guns and had confidence that when the sur- 
plus stock was exhausted the business would be on a staunch 
basis. This proved to be the result, and to-day we have many 
successful pigeon plants, and the product in the way of squabs 
commands as steady and high a price as when the craze was on. 
From a fancy point of view the growth of the business has been 
different. Its growth was steady ; new men went into the busi- 
ness for sport and pleasure as well as for profit. Specialty clubs 
doubled their membership ; the exhibits at the shows increased, 
and interest seemed to run as high as in poultry. Prices for 
good show specimens commanded as high a figure as poultry. 
The business advanced slowly but surely, and to-day Pigeons 
are one of the leading features of our fall and winter exhibitions. 

History and Origin of the Different Varieties. 

Sir Isaac Newton said, "To myself I seem to have been as a 
child playing on the seashore, while the immense ocean of truth 
lay unexplored before me, and 1 have only gathered a few grains 
of sand." 

How true this is when we com])are it to the origin of the 
different varieties of Pigeons, and all that can be learned con- 
cerning the first pair is the scattered fragments from the works 



of ancient writers. Noah first sent out of the ark a raven, but 
it did not return. He then sent forth a dove, and it returned. 
In seven days the dove was sent again, and it returned with an 
oHve leaf. After another seven days he sent forth the dove 
again, and it did not return. This is the first record we have of 
Pigeons being used as messengers. We can learn the following 
from Scripture, Gen. xv, 9: And he said unto him take an heifer 
of three years old and a she goat of three years old and a turtle 
dove and a young pigeon. St. Luke ii, 24: And to offer a sacri- 
fice; a pair of turtle doves and two young pigeons. Lev. i, 14: 
And if the burnt sacrifice for his offer to the Lord be of fowls 
he shall bring his offering of turtle doves or young pigeons. 

Hence we can take from this that where fowls are men- 
tioned for food it also includes doves and pigeons, hence for 
ages squabs have always been considered a staple article of food, 
and also an article that was sold as a food ages ago. St. John 
ii, 4: And found in the Temple those that sold oxen and sheep 
and doves. This portion of Scripture leads us to believe that 
pigeons were kept by the natives and taken to the markets to sell. 

Of the countless varieties of pigeons we have to-day nearly 
150 varieties, all originated, according to Darwin, from the Blue 
Rock Dove, a descendant of the original dove that Noah left fly 
from the ark and returned with the olive branch. The leading- 
breeds are the Jacobin, Fan-Tail, Duchess, Tumblers, Turbits, 
Owls, Barbs, Trumpeters, Nuns, Archangels, Swallows, Car- 
riers, Satinettes, Dragoons, Show, Homer, Shields. 



The First Steps in Squab Culture. 

Webster tells us that a squab is a young pigeon or dove. 
Of course there are different kinds of squabs, so far as quality 
is concerned, and quality governs the price the same as any 
other business. It is the "quality" kind that we wish to talk 
about here. No doubt many pigeon breeders have never seen 
a good marketable squab, and it is for this class of readers that 
this article is prepared. 

I would not advise an inexperienced person to invest all in 
the pigeon business. To do so would be throwing good money 
away, for this business, like any other, must be learned, and it 
is the little details and thorough knowledge that spell success. 
In the first place, secure all the knowledge you can concerning 



the business, and instead of starting with fifty pairs of birds 
start with ten and learn to handle them successfully. Increase 
your flock according- to the increase of your knowledge. I would 
not go to the expense of erecting a costly building if I had an 
old building or part of one that could be utilized to make the 
start. In arranging the building be sure it is so that the morn- 
ing and noonday sunshine is on the loft. Sunshine and fresh air 
go a long way toward success. 

Have the building thoroughl}^ whitewashed, and it is well 
to mix a little carbolic acid in the lime. This is an excellent 




An Up-to-date Building. 



preventative against mites and helps to ward off disease. You 
can arrange small boxes not less than 12x12 throughout the 
building and provide two boxes for each pair of birds. Guard 
against rats and make every effort to make the loft rat-proof. 

Construct your outside fly according to circumstances. It 
need not be over 8 feet high and other dimensions according to 
location and the number of birds. For the beginner the large 
squab breeding homer is what you want. Do not buy bargain 
lots, as they are generalh' old, worn-out birds, and you can make 
up your mind that something is wrong or they would not be 



lO 

sold at a sacrifice. Place your order with a reliable party and 
good goods can be secured for little money. Insist on mated 
birds about two years old and not over three, and good stock 
can be secured at $1.50 and $2.00 per pair. Only good, sound, 
well seasoned grain should be fed to the old birds. Furnish the 
old birds the proper rations, along with grit, charcoal, lime, 
sand and salt, and they will produce the quality kind of squabs. 
One of the most important things is the banding and keep- 
ing an accurate record of your flock, and this can be easily done 
by getting a small blank book and noting the numbers of the 
birds. For example : 

121 R. Ch. C. 

140 B. Ch. H. 

The 121 R. Ch. C. means the l^ird with band No. 121 is a red 
checkered cock bird, and is mated to bird with band No. 140, 
blue checkered hen. You can then leave blank spaces after this 
entry to keep record of this pair of birds for one year, or as long 
as you like. You will find this record a good one to begin with 
and where the number of birds is not too great to demand a 
shorter system. 

Number your nest boxes from one up to the amount of 
nests you have in the loft. Keep a supply of tobacco stems in 
the loft for the birds to build their nests in. This makes an 
excellent nesting material, and no lice or mites will bother the 
squabs when it is used. Pure, fresh, clear water is half the 
battle, and have their drinking can so arranged that the birds 
cannot bathe in it. 

Education — Value of Details and the Points That Count in the 

Squab Business. 

The squab industry of this country represents many thous- 
ands of dollars, and many thousands of dollars have been lost 
from lack of education — not knowing the details and careless- 
ness in attending promptly to the points that count. Fortu- 
nately, the squal) industry as a business is now conducted on a 
safe and sane basis, and those people who were led by misguid- 
ing literature to believe that there is a fortune in squabs and. 
invested their all, found out that the pigeon business must be 
learned the same as any other. These are the people that have 



dropped out of the business by disposing of their stock by time 
and the shooting match, and witli the passing away of this worth- 
less stock the market has been steady, and those who started in 
the proper way and were not afraid of work and hung on are 
now conducting a successful and profitable business. 

As I view the future and catch a glimpse of this great and 
growing industry, I am firm in the belief that it offers almost as 
good an opportunity to earn money and have a business of your 
own as anything you may take up, but you must work hard and 




Almost Readv for Market. 



work long, just the same as you would have to do in any other 
business. Raising scjuabs for market is not a new venture, for 
even Scripture (|uotes where they were sold in the market 
places. It is also one of the most fascinating and profitable 
occupations a man or woman can engage in, the work being to 
a very large extent light. TOr this reason many have engaged 
in it whose health would not permit inside work. It is not by 
any means a get-rich-(|uick occupation, but if it is conducted on 
business principles will return a handsome per cent, on the money 



12 



invested. The prices on squabs fluctuate nearly as much as on 
poultry, and squabs are fast taking the place of young chickens. 
For the amount invested they pay better than poultry, with less 
space used and less expensive buildings. There are no incuba- 
tors and brooders to tend, no little ones for the cats to make 
a meal on, no feeding of chicks. The parent birds attend to 
every detail in incubation and brooding, and in four weeks you 
have the finished product, ready for market. The owner has 
the birds under his constant care and observation, and the more 
attention given to the birds as their habits are learned the 




The Proper Way of Holding a Pigeon. 



greater the profits. Perhaps the reader is not aware that the 
eggs of pigeons hatch sooner than any other domestic bird, 
requiring 18 days, while it requires 21 days for hen eggs, 26 days 
for guinea eggs, 29 days for ducks, turkeys, geese, and pea fowls 
30 days. If you have bred any of the above, count the time it 
takes to hatch the eggs and the time, feed and attention it re- 
quires to rear them to market size, and then consider that 48 
days after the pigeon lays its eggs the squab is ready for the 
market. 

The demand for squabs will increase, as we now find them 



13 

on the menus of all the leading hotels and restaurants, and 
people who never knew what a squab was a few years ago are 
now paying anywhere from 75 cents to $1.50 for an order of 
squabs. One thing that will cause an increase in the demand 
for squabs is the scarcity of game and the stringent laws that 
forbid it to be sold, and the supply and demand will regulate 
the ]-)rice of squabs in the future. One thing sure is that the 
business cannot be conducted unless you apply strict business 
principles and keep a strict account of each pair of working birds, 
as some birds produce more and ])ettcr squabs than others. The 
ones that are not paying soon eat up the profit of the workers. 
Hence it is necessary to know the birds that are making you 
money and retain their ])rogeny for the enlargement of your 
flock and to take the place of the slow workers that do not come 
up to your ideal. We all must agree that time is money, and 
time spent in hunting a hatchet, shovel or scoop is lost; hence 
the advantage of having a place for everything. 

One of the main points in producing the best possible re- 
sults is regularity in attending to your birds. You must re- 
member that pigeons are intelligent creatures, and will very soon 
learn to know when to expect you to attend to their wants. 
Have a regular time to attend to every detail. Do not make 
any unnecessary noise. Teach the birds to know you and you 
will soon have them to fly on your shoulder and have a happy 
and contented lot of birds. System means everything, and with- 
out it and not living up to it means failure. If the proper start 
is made with good birds they should give you a net annual profit 
of $1.50 to $1.75 per pair. The squab business has an advantage 
over any other business, for in other lines it keeps a man's brain 
in a constant whirl thinking and planning in order that he can 
compete with his competitors, thus requiring a modern busi- 
ness training. 

Squab raising does not require a course in a business college 
to be successful. Its main requirements are a careful study of 
the requirements of your birds, studying their every need and a 
time and a system to do the things that must be done. Another 
very important point is the finding of a market where you can 
get the best returns for your goods, and last, but not least of the 
points that count, is to make up your mind to work and to know 
not what the word failure means. Let the stumbling blocks that 



you encounter to-day be stepping stones to use in broadening 
your business and combat the difficult problems that are bound 
to arise. 

Location for Breeding Houses. 

A sandy soil is best upon which to build a pigeon house, 
as it absorbs moisture and dries off very quickly. The land 
should slope a little so as to drain the water during rain and 
keep the floors from getting damp. Only a slight elevation is 
necessary to keep the under part of the building pure and sani- 
tary. Dampness causes and aggravates a host of diseases, such 




Arrangement of Nests. 

as canker, diarrhoea, etc. Success with a pigeon house built 
without a good substantial floor is doubtful. Always have the 
buildings at least six inches from the ground, so as to allow a 
free current of air to circulate, in order to dry out the dampness 
and rain water quickly. A southern exposure must be preserved, 
for a building thus located allows the sun to shine upon it and 
mto it from early morning till late in the afternoon. Sunlight 
kills the disease germs, and if a building is so built towards the 
south it will be many degrees warmer in winter than one built 
in any other exposure. To add to the comfort and safety of the 
birds it will be found excellent to reduce the temperature in 



15 

summer if a row of shade trees be planted in front of them. 
They will also be advantageous in keeping the drinkms water 
cool, for the sun's rays soon make water warm and unfit for the 
birds to drink in a very short time. 

Neatness of a building costs but little, so I would advise 
having them whitewashed at least every spring. 

Breeding Lofts. 
The building should be built in such a way that an exten- 
sion could be added if needed. I will give the reader an idea 
how to construct a building 32 feet in length, 10 feet in width, 
7 feet high in the rear and 9 feet high in front. Sixteen-foot 
boards should be used, so as not to allow much waste. This 
building can be extended any desired length. The illustrations 
on opposite and following pages give a view of houses, each 
of which are almost 100 feet in length. For making the frame- 
work- 3x4 hemlock scantling should be used, and for the joists 
and rafters 2x4 will answer. Both rafters and joists should not 
be over 2 feet apart. The sides of the building and ends should 
be stripped with wide laths (upon the outside) to prevent cold 
and draughts to enter in winter. The roof should be of hemlock 
boards a foot wide, over which tack three-ply felt roofing. This 
sort of roofing will last many years under favorable conditions, 
and it should be tarred with slag cement (a preparation espe- 
ciallv prepared for it) once or twice a year. I find this roof far 
better than slate, which is entirely too heatening in summer. 
Slate retains the heat much longer than felt. Shingles, if they 
are preferred, can be used and answer far better than either of 
the above, but the cost is somewhat of a hindrance. An opening 
should be left in the front and back of each pen, near the roof, 
to allow ventilation; in fact, between each rafter is better, for 
this will allow the heat which accumulates in summer to be 
carried off. In winter these openings should all be closed up. 
Very little ventilation is needed in winter. In each pen a win- 
dow at least 2x3 should be put midway from the f^oor to the 
roof. A double sash will be found better, although one is suffi- 
cient. These windows should be made so as to be easily «ilid 
back when required on the inside. Some every large squab 
raisers have an attachment arranged to their windows, so that 
by simply turning a crank all are opened or closed at the same 



1 6 

time, saving considerable trouble in going through the building 
and closing each one separately. This method is excellent to 
shut windows quickly when a shower arrives suddenly in sum- 
mer. On the inside of the building before any nest boxes, etc., 
are buift, tack tar paper one-ply on all sides. This makes the 
building considerably warmer in winter and prevents vermin in 
the summer. Some tack the paper on the outside, but this must 
be replaced with new every year, where if it were placed upon 
the inside it will last for years. The roof must have the thickest 
of felt (three-ply). To preserve this well so it will last for 
many years, coat with tar or slag cement at least once each year. 
While applying the tar or cement, before it has become dry upon 
the roof, throw pewter sand or small pebbles upon it. This 
renders it tough and hard, and even hail cannot do much damage 
to it. Without the sand or pebbles the cement should be applied 
every spring and fall. This must be done when the sun i.=; 
shining warm, for it will then run easier and be far easier to 
apply. 

Interior Construction of a Building. 

The interior should be divided into compartments 8 or 10 
feet wide, and the partitions can be made of laths or wire net- 
ting. At the floor a 12-inch board should be used for two rea- 
sons : it keeps the dirt in its own pen and prevents the birds 
from fighting. A slide-door should be made in each partition. 
By doing this it will not be necessary to have an alleyway 
through the building. However, an alleyway is very convenient 
when it comes to cleaning the coops and attending the birds. 
The first pen should be boarded up tight and kept for a store 
room, and can also be fitted up for killing and shipping room. 
Each compartment should have a window, and at the side of 
each window two holes 4 by 5 should be made to be used by 
the birds in winter when the windows are closed. The perches 
should be along the side of a building, and as many perches as 
there are cocks in the pen should be used. By having their 
perches the cock birds will not be compelled to roost on the 
nests. The nests should be made along the side and two nests 
provided for every working pair. The nests can be made of 
any cheap material, and should be not less than 18 inches in 
length, 12 inches wide and 12 inches high. Nail a 3-inch strip 



aloiio- Uie front of the nest to keep the eg^s and youngsters 
from falling out. Nest pans arc not necessary, and this is all 
that is required in the way of nests, excepting a 6-inch strip 
nailed upright between each section to prevent fighting from one 
nest to another. Evil results come from over-crowding, and 
twenty-five pairs is about right for the sized compartment de- 
scribed here. Nests should be cleaned after each pair is taken 
out and air-slacked lime sprinkled into them. 

This will keep it sweet and clean and prevent lice and mites 
as well as worms. The most important part of a pigeon loft is 
the floor, and here the best of tongued and grooved boards 
should be used to prevent dampness, and many claim it is profit- 




Fancy Pigeon House and Aviary 

able to make the floor 'rat-proof. An outside fly is necessary, 
and the birds must be on the ground. Failure to furnish the 
necessary fly means failure in the pigeon business. Any old 
barn or wagon shed can be used to good advantage in raising 
squabs or fancy stock if the outside fly is provided. 

How to Mate. 

Where the object in mating is for squabs for market alone 
it is not necessary to mate each pair separately, as fanciers do 
when they wish to keep a strain pure. When fancy birds are 
mated it would be folly for any one to mate ones of different 

2 



color, diflferent varieties, etc., but for squab raising it makes no 
difference whether a Duchess is mated to an Antwerp, or a 
Homer to a common bird, the main object being a good sized 
squab and white color when dressed. It would be best policy, 
however, to mate Homers to Homers, etc. 

Pigeons, as a rule, will pick their own mates, so if thirty 
cocks and thirty hens be left together in a pen, if all are healthy 
and vigorous, each will have its mate before a week passes. 




The Nest Pan or Nappie. 



Birds mated this way are usually mated for life, or until one 
or the other dies. The main point in mating is to be sure the 
birds are well and hearty, of same age (one or two years) and 
equally divided, i. e., equal number cocks and hens. Some pigeon 
men take the trouble to mate each pair separately. This is labor 
unnecessary. They use a box about 4 feet in length with a tight 
partition in the center, and place a cock in one side, a hen in the 
other. They leave them in the box to talk it all over for a week 



19 

or so, after which they remove the partition, and they usually 
mate up. It will be seen where many pairs are l<i be mated ii 
would take considerable time to mate them in this way. How- 
ever, for fancy birds and where only a few are kc])t this is the 
best and only way of matino-. If birds are purchased of good 
reliable parties, they are usually mated when shipped to the pur- 
chaser. This is one of the greatest ol^jects in purchasing, for 
many lofts are full of birds, one-half of which are unmated. 
Unmated birds, of course, are unprofitable. 

One odd cock in a loft will do more damage by picking and 
killing sf|ual)s than diseases will, lie is continually fighting the 
other cocks and destroying eggs and annoying hens wlvile setting. 
If one is found without a mate remove him from the breeding 
pens, and do not return him until ho has a mate, '["his will 
usuallv end all trouble. 




Matins 



How to Tell Males From Females. 

This is one of the most difficult tasks, and even the old 
experienced breeders miss it sometimes. As a rule the cock 
bird is the largest and has a different shaped head. A cock bird 
when it cooes will turn comi:)letely around, but a hen bird sel- 
dom does. Ofttimes we see a bird chasing or driving a bird 
inside and out of the coop. The bird doing the chasing is the 
male and the bird ])ursue(l is a female. 'J'he best and safest 
method of telling a male from a female is by the size and shape 
of the vent bones. In a cock l)ir(l the bones are crooked and 
almost touch, in many cases do touch, wherein a hen bird the 
bones are straight ami from a cjuartcr to a half inch apart. This 
is due to their nature of laying egg"s. ( )f course, the hen bird 



20 

thai never laid will not have her bones as far apart as the old 
breeder, hence care and caution must be used in mating young 
birds. 

How and When to Feed. 

Some prefer feeding their birds by throwing it upon the 
ground. This would do all right if the weather be dry and 
warm, but if it be damp or wet, and the birds did not eat up all 
at one meal, they will pick up the damp grains (probably mouldy 
by that time) and eat them, which is sure to produce ill health. 
I prefer feeding in troughs, inside the, buildings. Have troughs 
made 7 feet long, 6 inches wide with a strip 2 inches wide on the 
sides. Birds fed this way, if they do not eat all at once, still 
have sound, dry grain to pick at between meals. 

Pigeons. Taising squabs need to be fed but twice each day, 
early morning' and about 4 o'clock in the afternoon. Feed, if 
possible, as much as will be eaten up clean at each meal. If 
some of the morning meal still remains at the evening meal, give 
a little less. In a short time one can find out exactly how much 
each pen requires, but when there are a large number of squabs 
in a pen, of course it will require more feed. This is to be left 
to the judgment of the fancier. On an average the amount of 
feed for thirty pair of birds with their young is about two quarts 
at a meal ; without young, one to one and one-half quarts. They 
will eat less corn than wheat or peas, so in feeding corn give 
somewhat less than of the other grains. 

After once, adapting a system of feeding it becomes easy and 
natural, but no definite amount for a number of pairs could be 
given. Each must use his own judgment in feeding. The age 
of birds must also be considered. A lot of young squabs, just 
flying out of the nest require more food in proportion than ones 
fully matured. The amount of food also depends largely upon 
the climate, for in colder climates a larger amount will be con- 
sumed, and this should contain a great amount of heat. In 
warmer climates the foods containing the largest percentage of 
fats and carbohydrates should be fed sparingly. 

The following table will give the reader an idea of the prop- 
erties of the various grains usually fed to pigeons, and can judge 
how and when to feed : 



Value of the Different Grains. 

In each pound Protein Fat Starch Mineral matter 

of oz. drs. oz. drs. oz. drs. oz. drs. 

Wheat 1 15 8 9 4 5 

Buckwheat 1 15 10 9 4 4 

Oats 2 1 15 7 8 4 5 

Indian Corn 1 12 14 10 7 2 

Canada Peas 4 5 7 11 5 

Lupins 3 6 80 07 

Vetches 2 12 64 04 

Hemp 2 2 64 06 

Sunflower Seed 2 2 6 4 6 

The two latter are exceeding^ly fattenin«^ and heatening and 
must be fed sparingly, especially in summer. Safe to feed 
oftener in winter. 

It is far better to feed a variety of grains than one particular 
grain any length of time. Some are loosening to the bowels, 
others again constipating. Corn is somewhat constipating, 
while wheat (especially new wheat, which must never be fed) is 
loosening, especially to the squab ; it digests too easily or, in 
other words, becomes softened too cjuickly and the squabs, many 
of which die of "scours," a term used by pigeon men, identical 
with diarrhoea. Buckwheat is also heatening and binding, and 
is safe to use in winter only. To keep a bird's appetite good it 
is best to feed a variety of grains than one particular grain ; in 
fact, to keep them guessing what will comprise their next meal 

In feeding always give those grains containing the most 
heat at the evening meal, for then they have no exercise and they 
will require more heat, especially during winter nights. 

What to Feed. 

Wheat. 

Wheat is (taking it the whole year round) the main article 
of food for pigeons. It contains very nourishing qualities, rich 
in starch, fats and proteins, but should be fed in connection 
with some of the other grains occasionally, for if fed too long 
it will scour the birds, as it has slightly laxative qualities, prob- 
ably in the outer shell or bran. Red wheat should always be 



fed in preference to the white variety, the latter has more tend- 
ency to scour than the former. A good point to remember is 
don't feed new wheat, or new grains of any kind. It seems 
strange that when birds have their liberty about a farm they 
will enter a grain field and eat new grairi with relish and never 
experience any harm from it, but if it be fed to them when housed 
up they become ver}^ sickly and numbers of them will die. The 




One Type of the Ideal Squabbers. 

reason of this may be that they obtain more exercise than when 
housed up. Nevertheless this is the case, and wheat should be 
at least six months to a year old before it is fit for pigeons. 
When new wheat is first fed it seems to have little efifect upon 
the old birds, but the squabs become subject to "scours" and 
die. If it is fed any length of time it begins to show on the 



23 

old birds, and they are affected with diarrhtea of a severe form. 
Good wheat, if well seasoned, contains all the properties neces- 
sary for the health of the birds and is the main staff of life. 

Don't think of buying cheap wheat. The best you can buy 
is by far the cheapest. The crop of a bird is a very delicate 
organ, and it does not require much to start up an inflamma- 
tion with serious results. Through ne,£^lect and isijnorance hosts 
of birds die ofif, especially in summer, where if more precaution 
and better judgment had been used by the owner the rate of 
mortality in his birds would have been greatly lessened. It 
must not be understood that all fanciers do not lose birds by 
death at times; in fact, all do. People die and always will, even 
with the best of care, but I have reference to unusual numbers 
dying. 

The food given the parent birds invariably shows itself in 
the size and health of the squabs. Can a squab, a very delicate 
piece of organism all through, be raised in its full state of health 
upon poor, innutritions or mouldy food? Certainly not. This 
must be taken into consideration, and if any one has been feed- 
ing his birds poor (|ua]ity. change it at once to good food, and 
notice how much difference there will be in the results. 

Scorched Wheat. 

Scorched wdieat is largel}' used as a [)igeon food by pigeon 
raisers, for it is cheap and does ju t as well as good wheat in 
their estimation ; after it is fed a wdiile they notice their mistake. 
This quality of wheat is too hard and indigestible for pigeons to 
eat. Good wheat will soften in their crops in a few hours, but 
scorched wheat will not soften for a day or so. I have seen 
many bad cases of crop bound (indigestion) from the use of 
this wheat. 

What is scorched wheat? I will explain. I received this 
advice from a friend, an experienced miller, and he should know. 
Scorched wheat is supposed, and said, to come from elevator fires, 
fires th-at occur in the large \\'estern elevators. If this were 
true all the elevators would have been destroyed years ago, for 
there is an immense lot of this stuff on the markets at all times, 
and at times when no fires occur. This wheat is that which has 
become mouldy while at the elevattns. It is damaged of course 
and could not be used for making flour, so it is doctored up for 



24 

poultry food. It is run through a fire process and scorched 
enough so as to burn ofif the sprouts, if any are on, and to remove 
the mouldy smell. It is then dried in the sun, put in bags and 
finds its way to the poultry yards as feed. If one takes a few 
grains of this and eats it, he can readily detect the mouldy taste, 
even though it may have a smoky smell. I would advise all 
poultrymen to discontinue using it if they are doing so. The 
dealers purchase this wheat at $5 to $6 per ton less than good 




At Home. 



wheat could be bought. There are great quantities used every 
year, but the sooner it is discontinued the better for the squab 
raiser. It may do for chickens; I do not know, but for squabs 
nothing but second or third class can be raised from it. The 
main object in this business is to raise first-class squabs, the 
ones which demand the highest market prices. Mouldy feed or 



grains which have started f^cnnination, or damaged in any other 
way, should be cast aside and jiever used as food. Diseases such 
as crop bound, foul crop, etc., will surely follow any negligence 
on the part of the fancier, especially in the way of improper food 
and feeding. 

Wheat Screenings. 

The author as well as many other squab raisers uses screen- 
ings to as good an advantage as wheat ; i*n fact, I believe if the 
screenings be good it does better and fattens the squabs nicer 
and easier than pure wheat. I have reference to what is called 
good screenings. The majority on the market contains very 
little wheat, mostly dirt ; of course this is useless. I procure 
screenings from the mills direct and get it very good, at times the 
grains of wheat are almost perfect. There is an advantage in 
feeding screenings for more than one reason. First, the grains 
are all very dry and harder than the good wheat, are not digested 
so easily, but at the same time contain all the nourishing prop- 
erties. The wheat in screenings as a rule is better seasoned than 
pure wheat; birds both young and old thrive well upon it, and 
does not scour them like pure wheat. Another advantage is the 
other seeds which they can get from the screenings, as grass seed, 
tares and various other seeds which help to sharpen up their 
appetites. 

One purchasing screenings, how^ever, must keep his eyes 
wide open, for screenings have one disadvantage, and a very bad 
one. This is rye, which it sometimes contains. One must exam- 
ine it well before feeding, for if there be a certain percentage of 
rye in it, it will cause detrimental results. Rye should never be 
fed, even in small quantities, for it produces a violent intestinal 
inflammation or irritation and causes death. Pigs, chickens, or 
any other animal will not live if fed rye. So be careful in buying 
screenings to look out closely for rye. Wheat is as a rule $1.00 
to $1.25 per bushel. In pigeon wheat there is always some waste 
matter. In screenings there is the same, and a little more, but 
when good screenings can be bought for $1 per 100 pounds, it 
will be a great saving, and in this business expenses must be kept 
down to the lowest notch. In 100 pounds of screenings there will 
be two bushels or more. Wheat in this way costs 50 cents or 
less a bushel. 



26 

Oats. 

Oats is one of the most nourtsliin!]- and \alua1)le cereals we 
have. They are rich in phosphates and nerve-building food, 
make material for muscle, and are well proportioned in the 
other elements, but they are harsh and indigestible, due to 
their hulls. The larger and barer the oats the less hull. The 
crop of a pigeon is injured if the pointy oats is fed, and when 
given them in this way, they will not eat it, if anything else is 
before them. The oats used for pigeons is hulled oats. In this 
the rough pointv shell is removed, leaving nothing but the oat 




Keadv for Market. 

itself. It resembles rolled oats. It is the most excellent food 
obtainable, but it costs considerably more than plain oats. 

Millet. 

One of the most valuable articles of food as a relish or 
change for the birds is millet. The German or Hungarian 
variety is considered best. I have found from experience that 
this grain is exceedingly stimulating and makes birds breed up 



27 

to the liit;hcst imlcli, but it slioiild he fed si)ariii,^ly. as il is very 
strcii;:;-. A pint or ([uart to a l)ucketful of wheat or scre-:nin;jis 
is amplv suffieient. Never feed it alone. l)nt always mixed v.i'.h 
anv of the other strains exceptini;- corn, whieh should always be 
fed sc arateh-. I do not fancy feeding;- a mixture of corn, wheat, 
ete., for it cham-es the chemical action of the other strains, and 
none are of the nourishini^- value as thoUL;h fed sei)arately. Millet 
if i.M\'cn in proi^er ])ropi ntions, 1 fnid. lias a threat intluence ui)i;.i 
the skin of the scpiabs. They seldom turn d:irk when dressed 
for marlcet if fed a little millet. 




The Scanderoon 



Canada Peas. 

All who own truck know how crazy pigeons are for pea-. 
They will ruin a bed of peas in less than no time. They are 
exceedingly fond of them, and are healthy and strengthening 
lor them. Canada peas are the smallest of all the other varieties, 
but if they cannot be procured, the split peas or common field 
[)eas do for the same purpose. If you never fed them before, it 
will take them a dav or so finding out that they are edible, 
hut when they once eat them they watch and wait for them 
eaierly. I always feed them with screenings, but they pick out 
[.eas fn-i-t. before eating u ) the screenings. They arc somewhat 
steep in pi ice. but when one considers their nourishing qualities 
they are v,o;th the price. .K quart to a bucketful is sufficient. 



Buckwheat. 

Buckwheat is an excellent article for pigeon food, but it is 
to be used only in Winter months. It is a rich, heatening- grain 
and not adapted for hot weather. It has a tendency to produce 
white meat in squabs when dressed. An occasional handful in 
Summer will do no harm, but to feed it regular, as some do, 
it will do great harm. Never mix it with corn ; always with 
wheat. I had a friend who fed wheat, corn and buckwheat, 
mixed for Summer food; and in a few weeks after feeding this 
mixture he was out of the business. His birds died like flies. I 
attributed the cause to the mixture. To prove it to him I fed 
one pen of my own the same mixture and lost several fine birds 
after the first feed only. I did not feed any more of it ; I was 
convinced. It would be imsafe to feed it in connection with 
corn, even in Winter. Corn and buckwheat do not agree with 
birds, if it be mixed. 

Corn, 

Corn is used more extensively in the pigeon business than 
any other grain, simply because it is cheap. In fact, I know of 
some birds that get nothing but corn from one year to another, 
but this is very foolish. Corn is exceedingly rich in starch and 
contains a considerable amount of fats. Hence it is very heating. 
It should never be fed mixed, but always alone. I prefer cracked 
corn to whole corn ; for in the feeding process, which the parents 
go through, the young can swallow it with comfort. If whole 
corn, of the large grain variety be fed, there will always be some 
squabs unable to swallow it and choke to death. Owing to 
corn's heating qualities, it should be fed sparingly during warm 
weather. I feed it (one meal) every other night during summer. 
This is amply sufficient, as they do not care so much for it in 
Summer. In Winter they require more corn ; then I feed it 
every night. Never feed it during the morning, for at night they 
require more heat, and this supplies them with it. 



Kaffir Corn. 

This is a new variety of corn, has a small kernel, equally 
as small as pop-corn, and has the same properties as Indian corn. 
It is relished by the pigeons and is a wholesome food. However, 
its high price prevents its use extensively for squab raising. 



2 9 

Stale Bread. 

At almost all l)akeries stale bread can be purchased for a mere 
trifle. This can be given the birds as an extra, at almost any 
time during- the day. Soak it in water for an hour or so, or untd 
it is soft, then give it to the birds in their cages. This they will 
enjoy beyond measure. 

Waste Pop Corn, 

This is i)urchased from candy lirms and i.s the waste corn 
which did not pcjp. It is useful as pigeon food, is small and easily 
swallowed, and is healthy. It contains a certain portion of car- 
bon and charcoal, and is excellent for poultry as a side dish. 




Hemp and Sunflower Seeds. 

These two seeds are very rich in fats, and are highly con- 
centrated, and conse(iuently are to be used but little. 'Jdiey are 
generally used as an appetizer or tonic to run-down birds. They 
are excellent to keep up the bird during the moulting season. 

An occasional cupful of these seeds are good, but I would not 
advise their free use. As to the pigeons they are exceedingly 
fond of hemp seed, and if given enough will eat till it kills them. 
In cold weather more can be fed than in warm weather. 



30 
Lupins and Vetches. 

These two seeds ha\'e abtiut the same properties as peas and 
can be used as such. They are a high priced article of food, and 
are used mainly as a luxury in squab raising. In raising fancy 
stock, where large prices are obtained, the steep priced grains 
are overlooked. However, in squab raising these grains cannot 
be fed much, as expense must be kept as low as possible. 

Green Food. 

Pigeons do not rc(|uire green food and meat like chickens, 
but when salad can be procured they will eat it with relish and 
will do them no harm. (71rckvv'eed is also good for them in sea- 




A Handsome Group. 

son. An excellent green food for the birds is peas. Have a 
number of boxes into which sow peas, and when they are grown 
to an inch or two in height place the box and all in their cages 
and let them eat of the stalks. They can then be taken out again 
until they grow several inches and placed before the birds again 



SYSTEM OF FEEDING FOR SUMMER. 

Sunday, 

Morning, wheat screenings mixed with peas and millet. 
Afternoon, screenings alone. 



31 








N 




. . 33 

Monday. 

Morning', screenings with few vetches or hipins. 
Afternoon, cracked corn alone (full meal). 

Tuesday. 

Morning, screenings or wheat with ]K'as. 
Afternoon, screenings with a little millet. 

Wednesday. 

Morning, screenings alone. Soaked bread at noon. 
Afternoon, cracked corn (full meal). 

Thursday. 

Morning, screenings or wheat with hulled oats. 
Afternoon, screenings with peas. 

Friday. 

Morning, screenings with millet (ir peas. 
Afternoon, cracked corn, or kafifir corn. 

Saturday. 

Morning, wheat or screenings alone. 

.^fternoon, screenings with little hemp seed and millet. 

The above is my system of feeding pigeons, one which I 
adopted a few years ago with excellent results. The cost of the 
dearer grains, such as hemp, millet, ])eas, etc., will not be noticed 
if given in small (|uantities. What j)igeons need and want in 
order to keep them in health is a change, also a variety. 

The Flying or Racing Homer. 

This variety has made rapid strides toward perfection, and 
when we see a well bred, well trained flying homer it remind^ 
us of a well trained athlete ready and willing to go into the con- 
test. The reciuirements are a bird with a nice, even-shaped head 
of medium length set on a neck of medium thickness without 
any appearance of gullet, widening at the shoulders. The chest 
should be large and full, back short and flat and broad across 
the shoulders, tapering ofT to the rump and tail ; short and 
3 



34 

straig^lit breast bone; wings to have powerful btitt^. flight to be 
broad, strong and closely overlapped; good secondary feather 
and covering; tail close fitting, having the appearance of one 
feather ; carriage bold and alert size, meditim and every point in 
proportion. 

Training the Flying cr Racing Hcmer. 

Xo variety of pigeons is so much attached to their home as 
the hcmer. and such a thing as a homer leaving his home loft 
and taking up his abode in another, as sometimes others do, 
never occurs. The home instinct is bred in them ; indeed, so 
nnich of this instinct is impressed in ihcir nature that well-bred 




The rivintr Homer. 



ones rarely alight on any place but their own loft. Surrou:idlug 
roofs of buildings are seldom used by them as a loafing place. 
The injtirxt for home in them makes them easily trained for 
long distance flights. If pains are taken in training and condi- 
tio ning ihem. long and rapid flights are made easj' by them, and 
the number of birds lost in long distance flights is very small 
if they liave been carefully prepared. 

In tnining old or young birds for homing races, the b rd- 
^ hould 1)0 allowed to take daily exercise around the home loft. 
They should not be allowed unlimited liberty at all times, but 



35 

the bob wires witli which each loft should be e(|uii)ped should 
be opened about three times a day and the birds allowed to 
exercise. In a short time they will become accustomed to being 
on the wing and make (juitc long llights from the loft and become 
thoroughly acquainted with the surrounding country. Then they 
should be taken a few miles from the loft in a roomy basket or 
crate and liberated. They will at once circle and start for home. 
The next day they should be taken about five miles from home 
in the same direction as the previous day and liberated. The 
day followMiig they should be taken ten miles from home in the 
same direction and allowed to fly home. Usually these prepar- 
atory flights arc made from the east. First of all the birds are 
to be trained in a southern direction. After tlving ten miles from 




W'ell Trained and Readv for Market. 



the East, the birds are then taken over the same course from 
the West, and after they are thoroughly acquainted with the 
surrounding country from ten to tw^enty miles from the loft in 
an easterly and westerly direction, they can then be started for 
their southern route, five miles from home for the first flight. 

The day following they are taken ten miles from home ; the 
following day twenty, after which they are given a rest for a day 
or tw^o. with exercise around the home loft about a half hour each 
day. They then can be taken to the 50-mile station and liberated 
After this they can be sent to the hundred-mile station and then 
allowed one week's rest at home, with daily exercise of at least 
one hour. At the end of the week they can be shipped to the two 
hundred-mile station and then allowed another week's rest at 



36 

home with daily exercise of two hours. This system is continued 
by jumps of one hundred miles each w-eek until the birds reach 
the five or six hundred-mile station. After that, if extremely long- 
distance flights are desired, they can be jumped to the station the 
long flight is desired from. 

By carefully following this system of training, Homers 
frequently fly five hundred and even six hundred miles in one 
day, and cases are on record where birds have gone over eleven 
hundred miles. About the longest distance young birds should 
be trained is two hundred miles, although they have been 
known to fly five hundred miles as youngsters, but we do not 
advise these long flights for them as they are rarely of any 
account as old birds. After the}- are thoroughly matured old 
birds, one year old they are ready for extreme distances. 




Show Homer. 

The Show Homer. 

The interest taken in the Show Homer seems to increase as 
the years pass, thus giving its supporters abundant reason for 
claiming iti the most popular of all the difi^erent breeds of 
pigeons. Type is the strong point in the Show Homer. It 
matters not how perfect the head, eye, or color, the value is very 
much impaired if the specimen lacks type. Show Homers are 
bred in many difi^erent colors — Chequers, Blue, Black, Red, Dun, 
Silver and Yellow and in whole colors we have Blue, Silver, 
Mealy, Yellow, Grizzle and White 



37 
The Jacobins. 

The Jacobin, like the l'\'intail, depends on its attractiveness 
and wonderful formation of feather for its poi)ularity and de- 
mand. The Fantail is possibly better known to tiie novice than 
the Jacobin on account of its wonderful formation of tail, wdiich 
even the novice can distinguish and place the name to the bird. 
However, the Fantail can claim no greater army of enthusiasts 
than the Jacobin and the rivalry among the Jacoliin breeders of 
the present is almost ecpial to that of any other variety, and right- 
ly so, for there are many reasons why it should be. The Jacobin 
is a hearty and prolific pigeon and requires but little assistance 
to rear its own young. In other words, they are considered to 
be fairly good workers. This latter point should be empha- 
sized, for it is far too commonly assumed that a i^air of feeders 
are necessary for each pair of Jacobins. Many of the Jacobin 
fanciers claim that they will rear successfully every bird they 
have but that a few pairs of feeders will rear many a bird which 
gets a bad start from its parents or where the parents go to 
nest too soon. 

The Jacobin is a peculiar variety and can never be improved, 
nor its characteristics increased by crossing with any other vari- 
ety of pigeon. No small advantage is this when one looks around 
and sees evil results of such breaks in some of the favorite 
varieties of the day. The day has long passed when selection 
and {)erseverance on the part of the breeder will overcome every 
difficulty, however obstinate it may be and the present day Jaco- 
bin is really a work of art, made so by years of careful mating 
and breeding to bring about the desired result and the truly won- 
der feather formation that we see on nearly every si)ecimen that 
adorns our exhibitions. No variety has a more high-bred ap- 
pearance than the Jacobin when he is in full dress array. For 
the information of the novice, let us briefly describe the chief 
point of this beautiful variety, liy common consent the most 
important point in a good Jacobin is the hood. This should be 
smooth and thick in substance of feather, fitting almost closely 
to the head, reaching forv/ard as far as possible to the front of the 
head and merging without a break into the mane behind and the 
chain at either cheek. The chain should spring in a sweeping' 
curve on either side from its junction with the hcjod, completely 



38 

covering the big eyes and evenly meeting on both sides, reaching 
as far down the breast as possible. The mane should be well 
sprung into an arch shape from its junction with the back of the 
hood. The feathers should be thick and smooth and meeting 
from either side in a graceful curved line without a break. The 
center from which the feathers radiate at the side of the neck to 
form the main chain is known as the rose. The head above the 
under mandible, the rump. The tail and ten flight feathers on 
either side should be white ; the remainder of the body in colored 
varieties should be lustrous in color whether red, vellow or black. 




The Fantail. 

White or pearly eyes, long flights and tail, slim and tapering 
body and erect carriage make up the remaining properties of the 
fascinating Jacobins, one of the most beautiful varieties that is 
in existence. 

The Fantails. 

Of all the different varieties of pigeons possibly none attract 
"the attention of the visitors at our leading shows more than the 
Fantails. It is conceded by all that this is one of the most inter- 
esting and fascinating of all fancy varieties of pigeons. As we 



39 

walk down the aisles of our diflferent shows, it is noticed that 
there are usually more people stop and admire the Fans than any 
other variety. Their aristocratic carrias^e, their graceful steps 
and that peculiar and strikino- motion of head and neck are their 
source of attraction and admiration and they constantly draw 
forth from the uninitiated the most amusing comments and re- 
marks. 

The Fantail by nature is not wild and this with their 
peculiar characteristics makes them a general favorite. They 
are very easily tamed and quickly become attached to their 
owners. Another thing which helps to increase the popularity 
from an exhibitor's point of view is that one need not be a pro- 
fessional before being able to tell the good ones from the inferior 
birds and to pick out his show specimens. They not only please 
those who keep them solely for the pleasure of seeing them flying 
about their loft but they a])peal strongly to all who take a delight 
in exhibiting and here the question may be asked, wdiy? Be- 
cause it is a variety that is not difficult to breed ; that is to say, 
one need not serve an apprenticeship of several years by keeping 
the birds constantly before him in order to distinguish the ex- 
hibition birds. 

The Fans are as a rule good mothers and fathers and so require 
no foster parents to rear their young, as is the case of some of 
the short billed varieties, thus the great expense of having extra 
lofts and retaining other l)irds to rear the young is abolished. 
Contrary to much that has been said the Fantail requires no 
faking for exhibition purposes. There are possibly many who 
will question this statement and ask, "what about their tails?" 
True enough, the tail oi a Fan is often faked, but you need not 
resort to this source to get the good exhibition tails. The birds 
can and are bred with tails that require no manipulation to en- 
able them to win in fast company, and it is said that the birds 
whose tails are not faked usually win over those that have been 
tampered with. 

The novice may, therefore, venture to take up this delightful 
breed with hopeful expectation of success, provided he uses 
judgment in securing the parent stock and is careful with his 
matings. The training to get the recpiired carriage of the Fantail 
is an art that you will very soon become acciistomed to ancl 
delighted with as well. 



40 

Fans are bred in many different colors, the most popular, 
however, being the Whites, Blacks, Blues, Reds, Yellow, as well 
as the Saddle Backs. The Whites, as usual, have maintained 
the lead and are possibly the largest class of any of the Fans at 
the larger shows, and they have been bred to such a high state 
that it is really difficult to find fault with many of the winning 
specimens. The Blacks are not as popular as the Whites, but 
nevertheless the quality is not far behind. Blues, like the Blacks, 
are not bred very extensively, and the quality, as usual, is not 
that of the Blacks or Whites. Saddles are quite pleivtiful with 
usually fair classes at the shows, with uniform quality but noth- 
ing in comparison with the White variety. The Reds and the 
Y^ellows have made no advancement in popularity for the past 
several years, and about the same size classes are seen at the 
shows and about the same interest taken as a number of years 
ago, and it is claimed by some of the leading breeders that the 
Reds and Yellows are very difficult to breed. The wide-S})read 
popularity of the h^antails makes them in demand, and the fan- 
ciers of any of the different varieties have little trouble in dis- 
posing of their surplus stock. 

The Pouter. 

The Pouter is one of the oldest varieties of fancy pigeons 
and has been a great favorite as far back as 1735. In that year 
J. Moore published his treatise on tame pigeons, which I think 
was the first book on the subject. He there states, that the 
Pouter was first bred in England and is, therefore, called the 
English Pouter. It was originally a mixed breed between a 
horseman and a cropper, and it appears that this cross had been 
made very many years prior to Mr. Moore's remarks, judging 
from the description he gives. Of course, like all others of the 
older varieties, the Pouter has undergone many changes in 
fashion. Thirty years ago the great rage was size and length, 
somewhat irrespective of thickness of body, style and carriage. 
The shape of the limbs was not often what one would describe 
as elegant. I believe on some few occasions there are records 
where they measured seven and one-half inches and over, but 
seldom if ever looked as long and more rarely were of the cor- 
rect shape, position and closeness. Since that time the Pouter 
has gradually been improved in general structure. The body 



41 

has been greatly reduced in stoutness and the limbs no lone^er 
give the appearance of greater lengtli uu accduiit of the careful 
breeding to get them jdaced further l);ick in the bodv. closer 
inserted and finer in bone. The feather has also not been so 
nuich wanted in length, especially in tail. The shoulder has 
been considerably reduced, which all hcl])s to give the bird a 
more slender ai)j)earance and. considering the foregoing jxiints, 
the size of the croj) of the present-day 1 'outer is as large and 
as shapely as that of the old-time clumsy birds. 




The l)o\vn-to-l)ate Touter. 

There arc many ditTerent \ar!cties of Pouters. The Blue- 
Reds have always been the strongest, both in number and 
<juality. The Blacks, although they have improved in numbers, 
have made no material improvement, especially in color, ex- 
cepting in a few cases, and these instances may be counted on 
the fingers. In Reds it has been quite the reverse, a great im- 
provement having been made on them during the last several 
years, and there are plenty of good, first-class specimens to be 



42 

seen to-day. Yellows are quite popular and have improved 
much. These were the last to gain slenderness of growth, so 
much admired. 

The Whites, unfortunately, have gone back very much dur- 
ing the past two or three years. I do not mean by this that 
there are no good ones, but they are few, indeed, in comparison 
with the others. In many sections of our Eastern States the 
Pouter is the most popular of the different varieties of fancy 




pigeons, and much enthusiasm is displayed by the fanciers, and 
in one instance the writer can relate having seen several hun- 
dred specimens in one show, nearly all of which were of excp- 
tional quality. 

Magpie. 

To keep Magpies is to love them. Their charming colors, 
alertness, delicate and symmetrical form and the manner in which 
they care for themselves and their young endear them to their 



43 

owners. The ideal sketcli which appears with this article will 
convey to the reader wlu) knows little or nothing about pigeons, 
the handsome outlines and lady-like form of the Magpie, which 
is oft times referred to as the "Queen of Pigeons." 

They are bred in r)lack, Red, Yellow, Blue, Silver and Dun. 
The main points of the Magpie are so clearly defined in the 
sketch accompanying the article that it seems unnecessary to 
call any particular attention to them. The beautiful shape of 
skull, the fine texture of beak and wattle, the small bold eye, with 
fine choral cere, the long fine neck, the elegant outline of body, 
line folded tails and game-like legs and feet are placed in front 
of the fancier in such a masterful way tiiat to see them is to 
admire them. 




The English Owl. 

The English Owls arc not without a host of supporters, who 
claim them to be just as good, just as pretty as any variety. 
We find them most plentiful in blue, silver and dun, while occa- 
sionally we see a few blacks, chequers and creams. The good 
English Owl must have a fine dark eye cere, neat and shapely 
wattle, rich red eye, full gullet and abundance of frill. The head 
must be round, full and wide, have plenty of top skull and full 
frontal. The beak should be stout and well set and have a down- 
ward appearance, upper and lower mandables close fitting with 
dividing line pointing to the center of the eye. The carriage is 
one of the main features, as is also shortness of feather. 



44 



The Runt. 



Runts have been very prominently before the public for the 
past ten or twelve years, and have been used extensively in 
crossing with the Homer to produce a large squab-breeding bird. 
They are the largest variety of pigeons in existence, and a loft 
of full-bred rnnts is now a very hard thing to fmd. As a rule 
the thoroughbred Runt is not a very prolific breeder and is a 
little negligent in caring for her young, although their value to 
the pigeon industry nuist not be underestimated, for by cross- 




ing them with the Homer the present-day squab-producing bird 
was made. They are bred in blue, silver, dun and white. 



The Archangel. 

Of all the different varieties of pigeons with their great' 
diversity of colors, none compares with the Archangel in rich- 
ness. Just how they were named is a mystery, but there is a 
town in Russia by this name, and it is claimed they were origi- 
nated there. In the Far East, where most of the varieties of 



45 

fancy pigeons originated the people are very devout, and we 
have many birds named after their teachers, such as Nuns, 
Jacobins, Priests, and liencc it is presumed that they also named 
the Archanj^^el on account of its richness in color. It is one of 
the most attractive varieties that we have, and they are bred 
to a hii^h state of perfection. It has an uprii;ht carriage, long 
head, straiglit. slender beak. The wings are a dark brown, while 
the neck, head, breast and bust are a rich bronze, giving them 
a burnislicd ajipearance. 




Barbs. 

The I'.arb is by no means one of the prettiest of fancy 
pigfeons. However, it is a hardy variety and a fairly good 
breeder and not at all difficult to manage with reasonable care. 
One of the main features to watch in breeding Barbs is to pre- 
vent ulceration of the wattles, a disease that all wattled varie- 
ties are subject io. This can be prevented by sponging the 
wattles to remove the gummy exudation which all the wattled 
varieties afe subject to. The main point in breeding the P>arb 
is the head ; to get the eye wattles large enough that it cannot 



46 




see ahead or behind, thus making it an easy prey to its enemies. 
They are bred in different colors, reds, blacks and yellows being 
the most popular. 

The English Carriers. 

The English Carrier is oft times called the "King of 
Pigeons" and is largely bred not only in the United States but 
throughout civilization. They are bred in nearly all colors to 
a high state of perfection. It is a highly intelligent bird with 
bright eyes, alert and upright carriage, large eye ceres and prom- 
inent wattles. In the past the different breeders seemed to give 
all their attention in perfecting the head points, thus sacrificing 
color and other qualities, but this folly seems to be past and 
now color and carriage are receiving attention with the result 
of a more uniform type as well as a more beautiful bird. 

The Antwerp. 

The Antwerp is largely used as a squab raiser and is identi- 
cal with the Homer except in beak and eye, and the writer is 
safe in saying that the Antwerps and Homers outnumber all 
other varieties of pigeons combined. On our large pigeon farms 



47 




48 

Antwerps, Homers and their crosses are bred by the thousands, 
and many thousands of pairs of squal)s find their way to city 
markets and command the highest prices. It is a very hearty 
bird, prolific breeder, and stands confinement well 

Dragoons. 

Dragoons alwa3's command admiration whenever they are 
seen, whether it be in the show room or in the loft. As a cross 




in making squab raisers they have no superior, but have not 
been as extensively used as some of the other varieties on ac- 
count of their price, as good quality in Dragoons comes high, 
and it is claimed the demand is greater than the supply. They 
are hardy and prolific breeders, stand confinement well. In many 
respects, as will be noticed by the illustration, they resemble the 
Antwerp. They are bred in Blues, Grizzles, Blacks, Whites, 
Dunns, Silvers, Yellows and Chequers. 



50 

Trumpeters. 

The Trumpeters are a most peculiar and interesting variety. 
They were first imported into the United States about 1875. 
They are natives of Asia, where they are bred in the Mosques 
by the priests. They are bred in Blacks, Whites, Chequers and 
Mottles. They should stand low in the legs, very heavily feath- 
ered, well spread clear to the toenails. The main features are 
the rose and shell. The rose should be large, round, smooth and 
even, with a nice droop covering the beak and eyes, shell stand- 
ing well up at back and curved forward, extending from eye to 




eye. One of the peculiarities of the Trumpetors is the coo, and 
if once heard it is seldom forgotten, and it is possibly from this 
that they derived their name. 



Tumblers. 

Pigeons have been kept both for fancy and utility for ages. 
The Romans were ardent fanciers of this beautiful bird, and the 
talk at the Forum as frequently dwelt upon the pigeon as it did 
upon the Senator. 

Pigeon fanciers are like poets, "born not made." This trait 



5» 

in an individual manifests itself early and persists late. It is 
a magpie touch that ])laccs the urchin and the sat^e in the same 
class. Certainly no fancy holds out the tenijjtation that this one 
does. The possibilities are so p;reat. The whims of the most 
fastidious can find satisfaction in the piL;eon. 'Jliis bird is pro- 
duced in most every conceivable sha])e and color. The delicate 
tints and ])enciling of their feathers seem hardly to be a part of 
a living- bird. When one considers that these beautiful speci- 
mens of avian perfection evoluted from the aborii^ines, the Rock 
Doves, \cry evident is it then the class of men that labored to 
brint; about this change. No other fancy can boast of so many 




artistic and intelligent sympathizers as this one, for the simple 
reason that intelligence is necessary to produce and maintain, 
and an artistic temperament is required to appreciate the ele- 
gance thereof. 

Not only does the pigeon supply interesting combinations 
of color and shape, but action as well, viz., the lordly Pouter 
with his globe or the nervous Fantail wath her toe-dance. But 
to me that sturdy little acrobat, the Tumbler, appeals most 
strongly. While this bird is produced in more colors and varied 
other morphological characteristics than we find in any other 
breed, his aerial gymnastics completely eclipse the tame demon- 
.stration of the Pouter, the Fan, or any other performing pigeon. 



52 

The Tumbler is bred in all the usual colors of pigeons, i. e , 
white, black, red, yellow, dun, silver, blue bar, saddle, also bald 
head, rose-wing, white-side, badge, beard, etc. He may be 
either long-faced or of the short-beaked variety ; clean-legged, 
stocking-legged, or muffed, and many pleasing combinations of 
the foregoing colors and other characteristics. As a matter of 
fact, you are aware that this bird turns backward somersaults, 
hence the name Tumbler. The mode and surroundings in which 
he chooi-es to perform this feat divides his family into still fur- 
ther sub-divisions, i. e., outside and inside Tumblers. By out- 
side Tumblers we refer to a bird that files to some height before 
starting his daring performance. The inside Tumbler is a bird 
that will turn a somersault near the ground, thus making it pos- 
sible to do so within the aviary. This bird is popularly known 
as the parlor Tumbler. 

Again the class is divided as to the number of somersaults, 
for instance, .^ingles, as the word implies, a bird that turns a 
single somersault; doubles, the meaning of which is evident; 
roller, a performer that Hies to a dizzy height and commences 
the roll, continuing same until he comes near to or as indeed 
is frecjueritly the case, in actual contact with the ground or build- 
ings. In some instances making it hazardous to allow such a 
s;:ecimen to perform. 

This is l:)y no means the limit of the classifications of this 
most interesting bird, but it will suffice to recall to the mind of 
the reader the truly wide possibilities in breeding a pigeon of so 
(li^'elsc characteristics. Another very strong point in favor of 
the Tumlder .is his remarkable vitality. The past winter was 
characterized l)y much snow. It was necessary to house Ban- 
tams, and indeed larger poultry, quite frequently for weeks at a 
time; howe^■er. this seemed quite superfluous in the case of the 
Tumbler. A number of the clean-legged variety which the 
author alloAved to fly at liberty during this ti-me would, with im- 
punitv, walk about on the snow, the temperature near zero, flip- 
ping the dry ;'.now first one way and then the other in search 
of hemp seed to.-sed to them for the purpose of observing their 
actions. 

1 have yet to see the first pair of Tumblers that are not good 
feeders, and most of them are excellent feeders, rearing their 
young without any trouble whatsoever. This is a very essential 



53 

(|tiaHfication which is frequently lacking in otlier fancy breeds. 
1 know quite a few fanciers who make it a routine ])ractice to 
shift certain of tlieir fancy pigeon em't^s to birds of known feeditig 
ability. This, to say tlie least, is confusiui^ and e.\])ensi\e, neces- 
sitating- the su.staining of a surplus amount of stock, and perhaps 




The Pouter. The Pride of the Show Room. 



these foster parents are not so obliging as to set about the task 
of incubation at the proper time, another source of annoyance. 

When a fancier has spent much time and money to produce 
a pair of birds which he thinks will breed just the progeny he 
wants, how eagerly he watches the eggs, and when pipped he 
knows there is a winner in each shell. A few days later he finds 



54 

his winners mashed flat as a flitter — dead, starved. Then it is 
he realizes that the parent birds are no feeders, and if he expects 
any young from them it must be reared by other birds. With 
Tumblers this objectionable feature is obviated. 

To summarize, the hardy characteristics and ample feeding 
proclivities of the Tumbler recommend him and assure success 
to the amateur breeder as well as the veteran. His neat, com- 
pact bill, grand head and eye, dainty coloring and pleasing com- 
binations of same and other bodily characteristics appeal to the 
artistic, while his marvelous acrobatic achievements champion 
him the prince of entertainers. 

The English Turbit. 

Too much cannot be said of the English Turbit, the aristo- 
crat of the pigeon family, which has always kept a strong hold 
on the fancier who has an eye for the beautiful, for surely no 
other variety possesses so much real beauty as is combined in 
a thoroughbred Turbit. Their beautiful wing color, their large, 
appealing eyes and haughty carriage are a delight to all lovers 
of birds, and as a foundling the Turbit has no equal among birds, 
for they are docile by nature, can be picked up anywhere in the 
loft if gently treated, and like to trass and strut and be played 
with, and I have had birds so tame that they would light on me 
and follow me around the loft eating from my hand. 

You may ask: "What are they good for?" and if you do 
not like pets I will answer that they are good for nothing. They 
will get you out of bed a little earlier to give them a little atten- 
tion, and you will fuss with therri noon and evening, which is 
just what you need to drive dull care away. 

If you have never kept pigeons, I'd advise you to try it, but 
do not start with a good pair of Turbits. Get a cheap pair, for 
it will take you a season to learn even the A B C of Turbit 
breeding, and I'd hate to see a good pair used for trial and you 
lose them and your money. 

The essentials are a dry place to keep them, plenty of fresh 
air and fresh water, no draughts, good, clean food and grit and 
care as to lice and rats. Keep them hungry and active. 

No variety of pigeons command higher prices than a good, 
thoroughbred Turbit, and winners at large shows have sold for 



55 

from $200 to $300 each, and a pair of breeders that will not com- 
mand $25 are likely to be ordinary birds. 

Learn first to fancy the Turbit, then learn to care for them 
successfully and raise the young, then buy one or two good pair 
in preference to ten ordinary pair, and with intelligent mating you 
will have good results and be successful. 

The accompanying cut of some of my birds and a cut of an 
English hen will give you some idea of their beauty, and you 
may conclude for yourself whether you like the English or home- 
grown the best. England has years of advantage over us in 
breeding this handsome bird, but many a good one has been 
brought here, and man}- good birds are raised in this country 
t(D-day, but 'rnr])ils arc not as generally raised here as in Eng- 




Englisli 'l\irl)il. 

land for some reason or other, and the breeders of strictly high- 
class blue-blood Turbits in this country to-day can be counted 
on your fingers. 

The fancier who will take up the I'urbit and hold to his 
oars until he reaches tlie headwaters of Turbit possibilities will 
have a name, for men like Kline, Lenhart, Ullrich, Orr, Parson 
Feather, Hart, McTntyre and others will pass down in the his- 
tory of the American advancement of this, my favorite bird. 

The Carneaux. 

I have been asked to write an article on pigeons, especially 
about Carneaux, which are my favorite birds. 

I want to speak of Carneaux as a squab breeder. From ray 



56 

point of view the Carneaux stands prominently at the head for 
producing squabs of large size, and plenty of them. 

It is not uncommon for a pair of good Carneaux to raise 
from eight to eleven pairs of squabs in a year, and in size weigh- 
ing from 10 to 14 pounds to the dozen dressed. What more can 
anybody want in squab breeding birds. I have birds which are 
doing this for me at present. You can get your crosses, such 
as Runt Homer or Runt Maltese, etc., but I would like somebody 
to show me a bunch of good size coming up to the Carneaux 
as to number of squabs produced each year. Not all Carneaux 
are doing this, but if you get the right kind of stock you will 
have no trouble to make the average quoted.. 

I know of a certain breeder who has tried Carneaux and calls 
them a rank failure. Why? Because he got stung in buying 
his stock, having paid a very low price for them. Now he is 
condemning Carneaux. He bought Carneaux for $1 a pair. He 
has what I call "culls." Somebody had tried them before he got 
them and found them wanting, therefore he disposed of them for 
whatever he could get. I know of birds going the rounds from 
breeder to dealer, from dealer to breeder indefinitely. It is very 
unfortunate that we have so much of this business going on in 
pigeons. This is done in all kinds of pigeons, more so in Homers 
and their crosses than any other birds on account of their being- 
more plentiful than Carneaux. 

I had an experience several years ago in Carneaux which 
would almost have disgusted anybody just starting in with Car- 
neaux. I bought several pairs of solid red Carneaux from a 
breeder in New Jersey, who was advertising extensively and 
boasted to be a responsible party. I received the birds ; they 
succeeded in raising one pair of squabs a piece for me, then 
would not do anything for a long time, then started again laying 
eggs and hatching young ones. But these always died in from 
one to two weeks. I wrote to the party stating they could not 
accomplish anything. He replied that since I did not return 
birds right away he could do nothing for me ; I would have to 
run chances with them as well as he. 

Now these birds were guaranteed to give satisfaction as I 
had paid a good stiff price for them, so you can see we have 
cheats in the pigeon business as well as any other business. I, 
however, was not to be thrown down so easily. I gave these 
birds to a man who makes his living as a squab breeder, to see 



57 

what he couhl do with them. His experience was identically 
the same as mine. Now you may ask, what was the trouble that 
they laved and hatched and raised them to over two weeks old. 
and then died? Here, my dear reader, is the answer in a nut- 
shell. Inbreedin.i^! After I turned these birds over to the squab 
breeder 1 sent to another breeder for some ^.^ood tested breeders; 
and right here let me tell you I got them all right, coming up to 
my ideals in every way. 

So be careful with whom you place your orders for birds, 
as all the first part of your success dei)ends on getting the right 
kind of stock to begin with; that is why so many have failed in 
the scpiab business, and more are doing so constantly. The man 
who has been successful enough to get together one or two 
thousand pairs of good Carneaux does not need to care much 
which way the wind blows, as he is fixed in getting a good living 
and money besides. There are many men to-day who can show 
a good bank account made from scjuab raising, for one man can 
attend to at least 1.000 pairs of [ligeons, doing all work except 
plucking and killing or dressing them for market. V( u may 
say that is right, but how about disease. Well, let me tell you; 
you will have very little disease among pigeons properly housed 
and cared for. being very careful as to feeding only good sound 
grain and a variety of it. White wheat t)r mu.^ty wheat has 
carried ofif more pigeons than almost anything else. This causes 
sour crop, vomiting, diarrhea and death in very short order. 
Moreover, if stock is raised from birtls that have canker they 
will throw weaklings which are almost sure to die sooner or 
later from some disease ; therefore, the best remedy for birds 
cankering their young is the hatchet. Never raise a young 
pigeon from stock which is diseased in any way. Then you can 
make a success out of the pigeon business. 

I had something to happen to me just lately with a hen 
pigeon. She raised three pair of young squabs, then went into 
moult and never laid another egg after that. The cock bird was 
driving her all the time until she got on the nest and hatched 
for about four months, never laying any eggs. I took a pair of 
eggs and put them under her. She was hatching all right, looked 
healthy, never was droopy; hatche<l about one week, then died. 
I examined her and found she had fatty infiltration of the liver 
and bowels; no canker. This is something I never heard of 
before, but I am sure of my diagnosis. 
^' L. M. 3AILEY, M.D. 



58 

Swallows. 

On account of their handsome marking^ they are a very 
handsome bird, extensively bred and popular. They get their 
name from their close resemblance to the Sea Swallow. Thev 




have hazel colored eyes, long slender beak, shell crests and 
heavily feathered on toes and legs. Their body color is white 
with colored wings and toe feathers. 

Satinettes and Blondinettes. 

The Satinettes and Blondinettes are one of the oldest vari- 
eties of pigeons in existence, but just where they originated 
from is a mystery, and they belong to that group of pigeons 
known as Oriental Frills and, as their name implies, it is pre- 
sumed they had their origin in the Far East. The Satinettes and 
Blondinettes are very much alike. The Blondinettes may be 
termed a dark-bodied bird and the Satinette a white-bodied bird, 
with only colored shoulders and tails. The Blondinette is laced 
over the entire body and the Satinette on the shoulders. The 
lacing should be regular and free from moss, the ground color 



59 




being- white. The Uarred birds in both varieties should have 
the spot tail witii pure white boas, edited with a dark line with 
the distinction in the niarkinc: as in the laced birds. 

DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES. 

On previous pages of this book we ha\ e endeavored to help 
the pigeon breeders to keep and care for their birds in such a 
way as to keep them in good health, but diseases will come, and 
sometimes when almost ideal conditions surround the birds, and 
when they do come you naturally want to know a remedy that 
has been tried and true. 



Canker. 

Canker is a disease that will oft times make its appearance 
in the best regulated lofts. It attacks a bird sometimes in the 
ear, nostrils and mouth and throat. The disease in any section 
is a very contagious one, and it is hardly worth while doctoring 
the specimen unless it be a valuable bird, and the same treatment 
used for mouth and thrcjat canker will not affect a cure for 
canker of the ear, and a bird that recovers from an attack is not 
a good specimen to breed from, as it often makes its appearance 
in the squabs and oft times the whole loft is polluted and the 
breeder wonders how his birds contracted the disease. Canker 
inside the mouth and on the tongue can be cured by scraping it 



6o 

off until the blood conies and burnt powdered alum sprinkled 
on. This is one of the most effective cures for canker. Canker 
in the ear is not as easily cured as canker in the mouth, and th? 
ear washed gently with a solution of bicarbonate of soda and 
water daily will affect a cure if taken in time and the bird is 
given the proper attention. 

Pigeon Pox. 

A common and contagious disease caused by filthy condi- 
tions, moulding food, filthy drinking water, etc., is pigeon pox. 
It first makes its appearance like a little pimple and developes 
into a warty growth. When pulled off small root-like threads 
come with it and a quantity of pus and a watery fluid which ha- 
a very disagreeable odor. The only cure known is to cut around 
the growth in such a way so tliat when the wart is pulled ofT 
the roots will come with it. Then wash the wound with a solu- 
tion of carbolic acid and water and then apply a healing salve 
The disease is curable, but remember verv contagious. 

Going Light. 

Going light is the curse of the pigeon world. Whole flocks 
have been cleared out, and on account of this disease many hun- 
dreds of fanciers gave up the business in despair and disgust 
and when it makes its appearance quick action is necessary to 
prevent it from spreading. It is sometimes caused by birds get- 
ting chilled coming or going to shows. Dirty food and water, 
filthy houses and runs and tuberculosis can. in almost every 
instance, be traced to some neglect on the part of the owner. 
pFom appearances to the unexperienced the bird seems well but 
in a few days dies, having wasted to a mere skeleton. The dis- 
ease starts with diarrhoea, and in the course of a few days the 
bird beeornes so weak that it is unable to flub. When a bird so 
afflicted is found I would advise to take it out of the flock and 
kill it. While there are a number of remedies that in some cases 
w\\\ cure, yet I do not think it advisable to give a"}' here. As 
stated above, when it is first discovered, kill the specinien, clean 
up, disinfect and eradicate the cause which in nearly every case 
you are able to do. 



6i 

Leg Weakness. 

Sonicliincs this is due to injury of the si)itic, but more fre- 
quently to rheumatism. Injury to the spinal curd docs not ^ive 
much encouragement of etTecting a cure, for in many cases the 
paralysis will become complete. For leg weakness caused by 
rheumatism remoxe the l)ird to dry, comfortable (luarters. feed 
sparingly of strong food and the bird will usually come around 
alright. 

Prevent Rather Than Cure. 

As an oUl saying goes, "An ounce of prevention is worth a 
pound of cure." This is certainly a true saying so far as the 
pigeon business is concerned. If birds arc given the proper care 
and attention and such necessities in the way of lime, sand, grit, 
.salt, charcoal, a proper place to bathe in. and common sert.'^e 
used in making the building c(jmfortable and sanitary you will 
have no more trouble in raising pigeons than you will have with 
()oultry. 



62 




Ked Pyle Game Bantam. Male. 



PART II. 



BANTAMS. 

The Advance of the Bantam Industry. 

What a pleasure it must be to the old breeder as he walks 
down the aisles of our leading shows and lets his memory drift 
back fifteen or twenty years and compares the exhibits and the 
quality seen in those days to our present-day exhibits and 
quality. In those days if a hundred bantams were seen in shows 
it was considered remarkable, and tiie (juality was very crude. 
Now we see sometimes as high as 1,500 in a single exhibition, 
and the quality of the classes as a whole is just as good as the 
standard bred birds, and in some classes excels. The advance 
of the bantams has kept pace with the standard varieties, and 
to every dollar that was invested in them twenty years ago there 
are one hundred dollars invested to-day, and many men are 
making an exclusive business of it and find it profitable. As a 
general rule the breeders of the different varieties find it impos- 
sible to meet the demand, and a demand is l)Oun(l to increase. 
As the city man fully realizes that it is impossible to raise suc- 
cessfully standard fowls on his ten by twelve yard, yet at the 
same time he not only finds it profitable but pleasant as well to 
raise and care for forty or fifty bantams in the same space as 
he could keep ten or fifteen hens in an unsatisfactory and un- 
profitable way. To-day many of the finest exhibition specimens 
arc raised on the small city lot, and we dare say that those going 
into the bantam business will find it pleasant and profitable a? 
well as having the assurance of an increasing deniand. 



64 



Bantams and Bantam Fanciers. 

By W. C. Stoeckel. 



During- the last few years I have read quite a few poultry 
magazines and could count on my fingers the number of bantam 
articles that have been published. In these articles it is usually 
the same cry: "More about Bantams." There are certainly some 
good bantams in the country ; some of them are shown at the 
large shows, but I fear most of them are in hiding — or discarded ; 
the term applies either way. Why is it that bantams are thus 
ignored? Why should they be hidden from the world? Why 
should they be forgotten? Truly, the bantams are beautiful 
creatures and worthy all the publicity that can be given them. 

I will admit that there are a number of good bantam fanciers 
scattered throughout the country ; some of these fanciers exhibit, 
but the majority of them say, "It is too much trouble; we do 
not have enough time to condition our birds and get them ready 
for the shows." If this is true, then what is the use of breeding 
bantams at all — why not let the breed become extinct? If the 
fancier is tired of his bantams — if his love has grown cold, then 
it would be an easy matter to pass them along to some other 
fancier who would care for them — who would help boom them 
and make them as popular as they were some years ago. 

If you are a bantam breeder and happen to be defeated in 
the show-room, don't let that discourage you — say nothing about 
it, but endeavor to produce something that will win next year. 
You can do it if you will but try. Then you will become a true 
fancier and your competitors will appreciate it too. Nearly every 
man has a little spare time I am sure ; what is a better use for 
that spare time than to devote it to these pretty, miniature pets? 

If you have had the interesting experience of successfully 
breeding and improving your stock — write about it ; tell what you 
have done — how you have done it, etc. This will help to arouse 
an increased interest in Bantams everywhere. Merely some one 
to assume the initiative is all that is necessary ; the publishers 
y/ould be glad to give space to articles of this description. 



«5 

If you have produced a good specimen, have a neat lialf-tone 
cut engraved; this will make your article more interesting and you 
can also use the cut on yoin- stationery with show reccjrd ol tin- 
hird printeil helow. This will help to advertise your stock and 
will explain to your prospective customers, l)etter than words, what 
you have to offer. 

To-day the poultry i)ress harps on one suhject exclusively — 
"utility." Everything is utility it seems, and possihly this condi- 
tipn will exist for some time. lUit we should not forget that a 
numher of fanciers are in existence — real, true fanciers ; it is "up 
to them" to save the I'.antam. Will they rally to the support of 
the cause? That. 1 fear, is another story. However, if you are a 
r')antam hreeder, and if you write good, snappy, gingery T.antam 
stories, the publishers will he mighty glad to give JJantam 
copy of this nature publicity. They appreciate a good thing; they 
are anxious to further the fancy as well as the utility end. Yes, 
there is room for the utility poultrymen and the fanciers — plenty 
of room. 

If you are an embryo \ would suggest a few things, although 
I don't want to say too much, as I am in a position to learn con- 
siderably more myself, beiug, in a way, but an amateur. The 
first thing I would suggest is: "Don't be in too much of a hurry 
to buy until you know just what you want. When you have 
decided what variety of Bantams you prefer, go through the poul- 
try papers thoroughly, and then write to the fanciers who seem 
to have the stock that most appeals to you. Don't be afraid to 
pay a dollar or two more than you think necessary. Remember, 
high priced stock is ofttimes cheaper in the end." 

When you invest in stock, fight shy of the man who has a 
bargain — wdio wants to sell cheap. In ninety-nine cases out of a 
hundred there is something wrong — something "rotten in Denmark." 

One or two varieties will give you all the trouble you an- 
ticipate, and more too, sometimes. Don't endeavor to breed 
quality and cpiantity at the same time. This combination never 
seems to mix any better than does oil and water. 

Do not crowd your ])irds. They will not thrive if they do 
not have room to turn around. If they are crow-ded their plum- 
age will suffer; many bantam judges are very strict along this 

line. 

Some breeders reconuuend that the beginner and others 

5 



66 

should stunt their birds. I would not suggest this. It requires 
just as much nourishment to make feathers as it does to make 
flesh. Breed them down in the natural way, and in the end you 
will be better satisfied. Stunted birds are not good breeders. 

After you have a nice pen of birds, the next very important 
matter is to handle them intelligently and keep them clean — in 
sanitary pens with plenty of fresh air, proper ventilation, etc. 
If you keep them in pens of the above description, then you will 
have a healthy, clean-looking flock of bantams, the kind of a 
flock any fancier can well be proud of. 

In hatching and raising chicks, be very careful. Don't let 




White Cochin llaniam. Female. 



them get wet or have a chill. Don't feed them too much, espe- 
cially when they are quite small. Don't kill them with kindness. 
If you throw them an overdose of grain they will eat more than 
they should, and what they leave untouched will become moldy. 
They may be hungry before you feed them their breakfast and 
eat this unhealthy grain. This will harm them more than you 
would believe possible. Rather than feed too much, keep them 
a trifle hungry all the time; make them scratch for their "daily 
bread" and they will thus gain the necessary exercise. 

If you have one or two sick chicks in your flock and if you 



67 

fed thai thcv are beyond liuniaii skill, it is an easy matter to 
put them out of their luisery. if you would like to save them, 
especially if they are tpiite vahmble, separate them from the 
healthy chicks immediately, and don't put off doinj^^ this either, 
(hie sick chick often means that the entire flock will soon be 
walkinj.^ aJjout on "crutches" unless i)rom])t methods are taken 
at once to prevent the disease from sjjreading. 

It is also a i,^ood tiling to join one of the bantam clubs. 
There are several j^dod elubs, (Mie of the best bein^ the Nati<jnal 
r.antam Association, of which Geo. L. YolJnL,^ of Brooklyn. X. 
v., is secretary. The Xorth {'".astern Pennsylvania Uantam Club 
is also one of the best American bantam organizations; J. A. 
Rose, of Scrantcn, I'a., is the secretary of this club. I'^ither of 
these gentlemen would be glad to forward application blanks 
and all necessary infoimatit)n to any one desiring to join. The 
fa.orite bantam motto is: "More and better bantams; keep ever- 
lastingly at it." 

Starting in the Fancy. 

We all have to make a beginning in some way and at some 
time. It is true, some start with eggs, some with a pair, trio or 
l^en of birds, while others st:;rt to become fanciers on the "wdiole- 
sale plan" — buying .>-everal hundred e.gs or eight or ten jjcns ol 
fowls. In addition to this they start artificial incubation in an 
etlort to rear several thousand chicker.s per year expecting all 
to be winners. Without any previ(jus experience in the business 
and with a lar;; e tlock of birds to care for, is it any wonder they 
lecc me discouraged, sell out and start the cry that there is no 
money in "fancy poultry?" 

If I were starting tcr become a fancier again and wishing to 
avoid the many disappointments that befall the amateur, I would 
hrst consider the (piestion of quality, and would purchase frcjm 
a breeder that had the cpiality and bred it himself year by year. 
It makes no diiTerence wdie'her he breeds 100 or 1,000 fowls j er 
annum, if he l^rceds the right kind, and in the right wa}-. Onj 
setting or two of the beit e.?gs, and if you care also to make a 
larger investment and purchase breeding birds, then buy a j.air 
cr trio of hrst-class breeders; it nexer i)rys to start with a large 
number because they can be bought for the same price as two or 
three good birds. If a breeder is i:u;:cessful enough each year 



68 

to improve his quality and win out against all competitors, be- 
sides furnishing- his customers with the winners and the breeders 
and eggs that produce the winners, don't you think he should 
ask more and expect more for his strain than those that simply 
claim they have the best in the world or finest that were ever 
produced, and yet never come to the front and prove the quality 
they claim? I would rather buy one setting of eggs at $5 than 
two for the same money ; or. to jnirchase two birds for $25 than 
to receive five birds for that price. The better bird you buy the 
higher percentage of quality you obtain, and the shorter time it 
will take to produce a flock of standard excellence. Buy pedi- 
greed. stock, if possible, and use trap nests to continue the pedi- 
grees, as there is no surer nor quicker method to reach the ranks 
of a fancier. You will become better acquainted with the birds, 
individually, and this is a great achantage when ycni are ready 
to mate them up. 

Never breed from culls or "chance" birds, or i)urchase them 
at any price ; ihey are the highest-priced stock you ctnild possi- 
bly buy. and the "$l-a-setting" egg iiuestnient i\ve< nut pay any 
better. 

The fancy business can be started from stauchird niatings, 
often called utility niatings, but if fancy ])i)ints instead of eggs 
and market jiroduce is the object, then, we should be but wasting 
time, as it takes several }ears, even by the pedigree system, to 
build up high exhibition (|uality from standard niatings. and if 
time is worth anything, our debit from same would cause the 
lialance to be on the wrong side of llic ledger at the end of our 
exoerience. 




Black Cochin Bantam. Male 



69 



The Housing and Mating of Bantams. 
By M. K. Miller, Pottstown, Pa. 

One of tiie nifjst imi)ortant steps in the successful breedinj^ 
of bantams is the housint;. Bantams, to be bred successfully, 
should have their houses free from dampness and reasonably 
warm in winter. Great care should be taken in regards to dam[) 
quarters. Dampness causes colds, which soon develop into roup, 
canker and other diseases, which often prove fatal. Too much 
care cannot be taken in building or selecting houses. Thev 
should be free from cracks admitting any drafts of air, with good 
tight floors, sanded to a depth of several inches, this covered 
with cut hay, chaff or any other dry litter. They should also be 
made tight enough at night to keep out all marauding animals. 
The latter exjierience we have bought and paid dearly for. It is, 
however, not copyrighted or patented ; any one may have the 
same experience by not following timely warning. 

In mating bantams, pens should consist of a male and ncjt 
over five females, while some varieties, such as Rose Combs and 
Japanese produce better results if bred in trios. Better results 
will be obtained by mating pens of this number than larger ones, 
as more eggs will be fertilized and the peeps hatched will be 
stronger and more likely to live to maturity. As with any other 
variety of fowls, the cock is half of the [)en. Therefore too much 
care cannot be displayed in his selection. He should be a good, 
strong, vigorous bird, of fair size, as a small undersized male 
bird is seldom a good breeder. He should be strong in all points 
where females are weak. We have found a bird of nearly stand- 
ard weight to be more vigorous and stronger, producing more 
fertile eggs that will hatch chicks of greater vitality. We do 
not advocate the use of large and oversize birds, as we know 
from experience that standard weights can be maintained with- 
tnit breeding the undersized birds, which is always at the ex 
pense of stamina. 

In mating, produce the best stock you can afford and keep 
on improving until you have the best. The better your stock 
the more fascinating the breeding and more valuable your stock 
will be. 



•JQ 



That Bantam House. 
By Reeves Congdon. 

I want to tell your readers ju:-t a few words in regard to 
housing bantams. I have been breeding tlie little fellows only 
a short time compared with some, since 1905, and I believe I am 
just learning the first rudiments in bantam breeding. I do not 
want to convey the idea that I think I know all there is to know 
and just a little more. Not so, for I am always willing to listen 
and try and learn from those whim I know have grown gray in 



^i 




H^4^p|ft§S3 



Rrown Rerl (lame Uantam \\Qn. 



the enter[)rise, as their years of experience must surely ha\e 
taught them some good things. However, I have learned this 
much from experience, that it is a waste of time and money for 
me to try and house bants in glass-front houses and keep them 
free from dampness and colds. I believe from the very outset, 
when I first began, that no matter what fowl was going to be 
housed, it needed fresh air and plenty of it without getting 
draughts in the house. Hence I built my bantam house per- 
fectly tight on three sides and placed a removable curtain in the 



71 

front. These houses are 5 feet loiip^ and 3 feet deep, 30 inches 
hig^h in front and 20 inches at the back, with a roosting closet 
JO by 24 inches, about 10 inches clear from the floor, which al- 
lows them all of the 15 feet of floor si)ace for scratching. Over 
the front of the closet I placed a curtain which drops down to 
within 2 inches of closet floor. This I only use on very cold 
nights during zero weather. I have always found that the hens 
were just as willing to lay their eggs in nests that were placed 
on the side walls, just above their heads or on a le\-el with fldur 
of roosting closet, as any other. Sometimes I co\er the nest- 




Golden Seabright Kantam Hen. 



with a piece of tarred paper by just tacking the ])aper around one 
end and side, leaving only one end exposed to light upon, then 
draw the paper up to wall as high as need be and tack it there; 
this not only darkens the nest but stops roosting on edge of 
nest, as some fowls are wont to do. 

My floors are always covered with plenty of litter from the 
hay mow, and how the birds love to scratch and dig for their 
feed, as I am sure to cover every grain fed so they will have to 
work for it. In this house I usually keep a breeding pen of male 
and four or five females the year around, and let me say right 
here, that I never knew what a cold or case of roup was, every 
bird was as healthy as they could jjossibly be while in their 



72 

houses. Now I know you are wondering why I said I had 
learned from experience, etc. Last fall I added a new variety 
to my list and although I knew just what curtain fronts meant 
for me I was foolish enough to try a glass-front house. The idea 
struck me that perhaps the glass would draw the sun and make 
the house somewhat warmer, and I believe it did through the 
daytime, when the sun shone, but at night it also drew moisture 
from the birds' breath and from appearance of that glass I actu- 
ally believe it must have drawn moisture from the breath of the 
sparrows on the nearby trees and several other things for miles 
around, for in two days after placing the birds in there that glass 
was so thickly covered with frost as to darken the house, and 
as a result my male bird, in just six days, got tired of eating and 
breathing and is now vmder the snow. The females were not 
quite so badly afifected, and I finally got them around to them- 
selves again. And you may be sure that house has a curtain 
front at this writing, and the curtain is removed every day except 
when stormy. Now I am waiting for some fellow to come along 
and tell me about a glass-front house, and I will tell him a story 
with a different tune. 



n 

Breeding Fancy Bantams. 
By M. K. Miller. 

No branch of the i)oultry interest has advanced so rapidly 
as has the breeding of bantams. We see among the breeders of 
to-day all classes from the day laborer to the millionaire. 

In breeding any variety of bantams the same rules must be 
followed as in breeding any of the large varieties of fowls. The 
most important factor is in selecting good healthy stock. Unless 
the parent stock is healthy, vigorous and free from hereditary 
ailment one can not expect satisfactory results. 

From weak birds many of the eggs will not be fertile and 
those that are will hatch chicks of low vitality that seldom grow 
to maturity. Those that do will be subject to rou^) and other 
diseases. A bantam that has once had a severe attack of roup 
is not a fit bird to breed from. The offspring will in nine cases 
out of ten be puny weaklings, and a source of annoyance and dis- 
couragement to the breeder. Never buy a bird to breed from 
that you know has been diseased simi)ly because the price Is low. 
The hearty, vigorous ones at a fair price are always the cheapest 
and the results obtained more satisfactory. The breeder who 
devotes his time to only, one breed is by far more sure of success. 
To breed bantams successfully, not only great care is required 
but superior intelligence and a constant study in order to accpiire 
a thorough knowledge of the breed undertaken. This is truer in 
the breeding of fancy bantams than of almost any o'.hcr animal. 
I would not advise any one to undertake the breeding of fancy 
bantams with the selfish notion of making money only, unles:^ he 
has considerable experience in the laws wdiich govern those ol 
reproduction. As a rule, beginners enter into the business wiili 
great expectations and dreams of financial success, but oftlimes 
fail, only to try again until his past experience has taught him 
what a difificult art it is. Still, one is bound to succeed in time i. 
lots of s.;rit, pluck, a level head, and, above all, a natural love for 
the kind l)red, also a standard of the variety bred to be able 
to know what to breed for. Breeding fancy bantams means birds 
bred to standard requirements and as pure as it is possible to 
breed them. To obtain any degree (jf perfection in any variety 



74 

becomes possible only by keeping and 1:)reeding for the best. 
Fancy bantams command high prices and eggs from prize win- 
ners command equally high prices. The raising of fancy bantams 
is a business that requires experience, preseverance and patience, 
but when the objective poi-jt is gained one's time and tremble is 
offset by the profit there is in them. Great popularity has come 
to these little beauties and in many instances high values are 
placed upon and realized for them. It is to be hoped that ban- 
tam breeders everywhere will stamp out entirely the breeding 
and selling of poor quality at any ]M'ice, aiul thus elevate thim 
so that those who breed and fancy them may feel -ecure that Miey 
liave only good c;uality. 




White Cochin Bantam, Male. 



Variety Bantams. 

Like most other fanciers I have been a lover of poultry e\ er 
since my boyhood days. During that time my experience has 
been limited exclusively to variety bantams, particularly Cochin- 
Japanese and Rose Combs. I well remember when a mere boy 
how father used to point out the good and bad qualities of A 
bird and in that way made the bantam industry a very pleasant 
study for me. 

We first began with Black Tailed Japanese and a short time 
afterv.-ards added the White Japanese, which we have been breed- 



75 

\n^ continuously, luinlams as a rule are conceded to be harder 
to raise than ttthcr breeds of poultry, this is particularly so of 
the Japanese. 

One of the first essentials in breeding any \ariety of poultry 
is the necessity of having good parent stock. Not only healthy 
but typical in shape and carriage. .\ great mistake is often made 
in allowing for instance a bird with excellent shape, color, etc., 
btit deficient in comb or some other detail to be kept in the breeding 
pen. True it is, it may produce one or so fair birds, but in the 
majority of cases you will have many culls. Therefore it is essen- 
tial that we have a good breeding pen to begin with, say six females 
and a male. 

We have found that the best mature bantams are those 
hatched in the latter ])art of May or June, for then we need have 
no fear of cold weather, something which is particularly bard on 
bantams. 

One thing wdiich a great many breeders of poultry seem to 
neglect is the home for the birds. 1 believe that one thing more 
than any other which has caused us to be successful in rearing 
bantams is the fact that we have always taken great care of the 
houses and runs of our birds. Houses should above all be kept 
clean and free from lice and this can only be done by conscien- 
tious work on the p-art of the breeder. Kee[) the house well dis- 
infected and there is nothing lietter than a good coat of white 
wash with carbolic added. This can be done several times a 
year, and the roosts and perches can be cleaned once or twice a 
week and then disinfected. 

We have found the small house, similar to a colony house, 
the most desirable for bantams, for it is easily kept clean and 
the breeds can be kept separate with no danger of spread of dis- 
ease. During the cold winter months we enclose the roosts 
with bagging and in this way need not employ any artificial heat 
and at the same time the birds sleep good and warm, in sum- 
mer it is just as essential that plenty of ventilation be had, for 
if anything hinders the development of any breed, and jxirticu- 
larly of bantams, it is overcrowding and want of ventilation. 

Now as to runs for bantams. There is a great difference 
of opinion on this question, but we have always given our birds 
from chicks up a very gootl range. During the last live years 
we have had our vards turned into lawns by harrowing and 



76 

sowing of grass seed. In this way the birds are kept clean and 
at the same time get plenty of good green grass. Of course we 
provide a place for dusting, which is essential. 

We hatch all our bantams by the good old mother hen, a 
bantam preferably, for they are less clumsy and make excellent 
mothers, particularly the Cochin bantams. 

The bantam is certainly coming to the fore as one of the 
leading breeds of poultry, and here in Lancaster County we are 
doing all in our power to bring the bantam to the front, where it 
belongs. All we need now is a good paper like the Poultry Item 
to help us along and we trust the day is not far distant when a 
more prominent place shall be given to the bantam in the poultry 
world. 

DR. C. H. WITHER 




Rose Comb Black. Male. 



Bantams — Black and White Rosecombs. 

My experience with bantams varies very little from that 
with larger fowl. Like most other fanciers I have been a lover 
of poultry from boyhood and among my first possessions was a 
bantam hen and a brood of chicks (large fowls) given me by my 
mother when wife and I began housekeeping, now almost eigh- 
teen years ago. I have had a few BufT Cochin, quite a number 
of Partridge Cochin, but Rose Combs, both black and white, has 
been my delight. I first began breeding Black Rose Combs 



77 

from a trio bought and said to be good stock. I have found this 
to be true and have bred within that line or strain for several 
years, and my winnings at Chicago, Fort Wayne and Toledo 
prove that 1 have the goods. 

One wants large, satiny earlobes, as near pure white as is 
possible to have them, a gt)od comb, well set, with the spike at 
the proper angle, the feathers pure black with as little purple as 
possible, wing feathers free from white or gray, wing and tail 
long and carried well down. 1 believe where many make a mis- 
take is in breeding from ordinary or even poor specimens, better 
breed from a pair or trio of g( od ones than a score of ordinary 




Duck Wing ( iame Hantam lien. 



birds. In hatcliing I ha\e found bantam liens preferable to 
others, or even the incubator. Place them in a quiet place, allow- 
ing them to go and come as they please ; when chicks are hatched 
keep them well protected from wind, rain and cold. In fact, best 
results are obtained by keeping them in some building that has 
a wdndow or two to admit the sunlight. Bread soaked in sweet 
milk and then well drained is a good feed, also custard made of 
e^^^:^ and milk, slightly seasoned with salt and pepper and boiled 
quite hard. However, I have used a considerable amount of 
commercial chick feed with good results. Some say that after 
three wrecks they can be let run and very little attention paid to 



78 



them. I have found that good care all the time and at all ages 
well repays one ; in fact, this applies to all poultry, little or big. 

The White Rose Combs I have found a little harder to rear, 
but I think they have been in-bred to such an extent that their 
constitutions are weakened. They are liable to the same defects 
that all white fowls are, and should be carefully culled and mated 
to produce good birds. 

Bantam breeders lack co-operation as yet and do not get 
their just dues at many of our shows. This is their own fault, 
for as in everything else we do not get something for nothing and 
the way to get recognition is to go after it. 



79 



THE SEABRIGHT BANTAMS, GOLDEN AND SILVER. 

Breeding and Mating Seabright Bantams. 

I'.v iM. K. Miller. I'ottstown, Pa. 



Tlic Itrcc'tliu^ of either Golden or .Silver Seabrights is not a 
g^ame of eliance. but a busines.s with uncertainties enough to 
make it interesting and \ery often disappointing. To hold your 
own, great care in mating must be exercised. Many who are 
breeding one or the other of these varieties can see only one oi 
the many desired (jualities and mate for that one point alone. 
\'isit a breeder and it will be a \ery easy matter to see what 



/ x\ /4>/^ 




Seabright luintams. 

his hobb\ is regarding the breed, lie will often overlook all 
other points except that particular one. Many lose sight of Sea- 
bright shape entirely while stri\ing for lacing; others are looking 
for a clear, cloudless tail, consequently the all around specimen 
is entirely overlooked for the bird good in that one section. ( )f 
the two varieties it is very hard to tell which is the most popular. 
The only dillerence in the two varieties is the body color; that 
of the Golden being a rich golden and that of the Silver a silvery 
white; each feather should be laced all around with a narrow 
lacing of glossy black. Many Seabrights have narrow lacing 
up the side of the feather, and (piite wide on the end, or it may 
be too wide around the entire feather. The latter is preferable 



8o 

to the former. The correct width of lacing in either variety is 
about 1-16 of an inch. To get the desirable glossy black edging 
you must have a dark undercolor. Many specimens that from 
outside appearance look perfect, show when opened up few 
feathers laced into the undercolor. Another important feature 
often lost sight of even by judges in the show room is the 
shape of the feather. 

The true Seabright feather and one that shows ofif the lacing 
to the best advantage is a rather broad one with a round end. 
Many are bred with a long, narrow feather with ends that look 
as if they had been clipped off straight across. A bird might be 
perfectly laced and in shape anything but a Seabright. The 
perfect Seabright should have a small, neat head, carried well 
back, with full bright eyes, rose comb, scpiare in front and evenly 
serrated, tapering at the rear in a spike inclined slightly upward, 
well arched and tapering neck, absolutely free from hackle 
feathers, short back wings rather large and carried moderately 
low, giving them a strutting appearance, tail of good size, well 
spread and carried pretty high, free from sickle feathers, al- 
though a male bird with slightly longer feathers on top of tail 
will prove the best breeding bird. The tail coverts should be 
evenly laced all around and free from mossiness (or white in 
.Goldens). This point is often neglected and we see even in the 
show room many birds with tail feathers tipped or spangled with 
black. They should also have moderately short legs. Many 
specimens are bred to-day with long stilty legs, and long backs ; 
in fact, anything but a true Seabright in shape. Unquestionably 
the Seabright when bred true to shape and color is the most 
beautiful, aristocratic, sauciest and most fashionable ornamental 
bantams bred to-day, and they are veritable little egg machines. 

In breeding Seabrights it is best to select a small male bird 
in preference to small females. Larger females are more pro- 
ductive and chicks hatched are stronger. Seabright chicks being 
of a delicate nature, it is better to use hens in preference to 
pullets for breeding, unless early hatched, then they should prove 
equally good. If possible have both male and females as near 
perfect in all sections as you can get them, but should the male 
be weak in any point see that the females to mate him are strong 
in those points. However, extremes do not give the best results. 
If care is exercised in mating, however, even better results may 



be obtained l)y usine; two matings, one for cockerel and another 
for pullet breeding. For a cockerel mating select a sound rather 
wide-laced male bird, very distinct in breast and tail. The 
females to mate him should be finely laced with a good, black 
(not dark brown) lacing, each flight feather of the wing should 
be laced to the end, the tail should also be well laced to the end 
with perfectly clear centers, free from white or black in the 
Goldens and black in Silvers. The male for pullet breeding 
should be a very narrow-laced bird with a good breast. A good 
comb is very essential in both matings, clear in center of tail 
feathers and also well laced, and well-laced wing ends, the 
females should be rather heavy laced, and well-laced thighs, tail 
and tail coverts ; these are very important points in pullet breeding. 
With matings as described one will seldom fail to breed a good 
percentage of prize winners. As to the number of females to 
breed to a male, breeders difTer, but we usually breed from three 
to five — very much depends upon the vigor of the male. 

Seabrights are a very profitable bantam to breed. Good 
specimens are always in great demand. In all our years of 
breeding we have never had any trouble to dispose of all we 
can raise, at prices that pay well for the care and expense. 



Seabrights and Their Origin. 

By I''. D. Lewis. 

Seabright bantams present the finest example of success, 
with what might be called artificial breeding, in the world. They 
are entirely made up from crossing various varieties together, 
and after over a century of breeding present a perfect variety. 

The black lacing around their feathers, and their low-set 
combs are hard to breed in fowls. Not only here are they re- 
markable, but the males are entirely hen feathered ; having no 
hackles, saddle feathers or sickles — the only instance of such a 
combination of omissions in all the fowl kingdom. 

But most of all is the remarkable lacing shown by the best 
specimens of both golden and silvers, each feather evenly laced 
all around with the glossy black on the clear ground color of 
gold or silver. 
6 



82 

Seabright bantams were originated by Sir John Seabright, 
an English nolileman, over one hundred and twenty-five years 
aL(x It took this nobleman many years to develop all the 
crosses and so to blend the pjoduct as to finally evolve the most 
charming of the bantam triljcs. but with great perseverance he 
progressed with the breed until he had surmounted all difficulties 
and if he accomplished nothing else has left behind him a name 
that will always be knovs^n, and a lasting memorial to his taste 
and skill as a breeder. 

It is supposed the birds used as crosses were chiefly Golden 
and Silver Polish and lilack and \\'hite Rose Combs and Wankin 




P). P). Red Game Pantam Hen. 



Paritams. Although it is thouglit it is possible some other birds 
were also used ; at any rate it has been positively said that, if 
at the present time, vSeabrights were entirely lost, that by 
crossing the aljove-named breeds the vSeabrights could be repro- 
duced after years of careful breeding. 

Golden and Silver Seabright bantams resemble each other in 
black and white illustrations in all respects, as they are; except 
in ground color or ])lumage. Golden Seabrights, both cock and 
hen, should be exactly alike in color ; the ground color of different 
strains show a good deal <)f shade from the very yellow gold to 



83 

the dark bay. We have always liked the medium color the best 
or as the Standard calls it, "golden bay." 

The ground color of the Silvers is milk white, or just a trifle 
shaded, called silvery white. The latter color we prefer. The 
lacing of both varieties should be a rich green black, or as the 
Standard calls it, "glossy black," and each feather should be 
laced all around evenly without outer fringe of gold or white. 

Seabright bantams should be rather short-backed, short 
legged, compact bodies, with drooping wings, very prominent 
chests, head thrown back, tail carried rather high and feathers 
rather short, and another thing rather peculiar to Seabright ban- 
tams is the quivering movements of tTie body so common with 




Buff Cochin. Male. 



Fantail pigeons. This is very often very noticeable, but not 
common with all Seabrights. 

All Seabrights should have slate blue legs and feet. In these 
varieties tiiere is no need for different pens to breed males and 
females, as both sexes are in all respects alike as far as markings 
are concerned. 

We have always been advocates of early hatching of ban- 
tams. May and June, but not later tlian July. IJantams bred after 
July may be a trifle smaller, l)ut with good stock to start with 
the earlier birds will prove the more healthy, and prove more 
satisfactory. 



84 

Cuckoo or Scotch Grey Bantams. 

Never in the history of poultry shows has the display of 
bantams been so large and interesting as at the fall fairs. One 
is inclined, at first thought, to declare : how could that be pos- 
sible? why the fall shows are made up of the riffrafif of poultry- 
men and how could the show of bantams be at all interesting? 
There was a time when one could say that, but I am glad to 
say that it was in the long-distant past. One finds now at the 
larger agricultural fairs as fine and large displays of all varieties 
of pure bred fowls as is seen at the crack winter shows. Especi- 
ally is this true of bantams. There was a time when exhibitors 
kept their bang-up good ones for the winter show and sent only 
their culls to the agricultural fairs, but that has changed. One 
now sees the noted winners of the winter before at the largest 
shows and the chicks that bring in the money at the same shows 
the coming winter. It now takes a good bird to win the blue at 
the fall shows, as it does at the winter ones, and in most cases 
a win means fully as much honor and more of the necessary to 
fill the feed bins in these times of high grain prices. I have been 
impressed for some time past, and have written several articles 
along the same lines, by the scarcity of the rarer varieties of ban- 
tams. When I was in the fancy it was my greatest pleasure to have 
the rarer varieties and the newest ones and work with the view 
of improvement. It seems at the present time that the great 
majority of bantam breeders have no thought' above the standard 
varieties. Sure there is much more pleasure to enter heartily 
into the spirit of improvement and take hold of a new variety 
and by hard and persistent work see it mount higher and higher 
until it stands way up near the top and hear the well-earned 
plaudits of the fanciers who can appreciate in its fullest sense 
what it means to climb to such a vantage point. How many 
years have passed since you have seen a first-class Cuckoo or 
Scotch Grey bantam? I have not seen a single specimen for five 
years and in that time I have handled many thousand of the little 
beauties. The first specimens were found in Scotland some fifty 
years ago and were evidently produced by a fusion of pure black 
with pure white and it is a well-known fact amongst breeders 
that this fusion will produce cuckoo markings, so you can readily 
see that every breeder of bantams has on hand at all times the 
desired material to produce cuckoos. I have known instances. 



85 

where white and black rose combs have been crossed for ear lobe 
betterment and cuckoos were the result, and I feel confident that 
the rose comb cuckoo is a sport from such a cross. Of the two 
varieties I have always preferred the single combs. They should 
be small, and in the rose combs you will always find them so. 
Combs should be perfectly erect in both sexes, ear lobes red, 
combs, faces and wattles red, legs white or mottled to match the 
plumage, eyes red, feathers finely and evenly marked with dis- 
tinct bars or hands across each feather, and the finer the bars the 
better. The ground color should be a very pale French grey 
both in males and females and the bars should be of dark slate 
color. There should be no white feathers in tails or wings and 
here is where many specimens fall down, as it is very difficult 
to remedy this defect. Black feathers are often seen in hackles 
and saddles and although very much better than the white they 
are not all desirable. In breeding cuckoos I would prefer a cock 
bird, dark in color, and as fine in bars as possible. The natural 
tendency of the breed is to revert to the broader and more open 
markings, which are of very much less value. You will get some 
black and also some white sports, but I would never breed them. 
It would be an easy matter to produce a strain of rose combs by 
mating a well-marked single comb cock with rose comb black 
females and then mating a cuckoo cockerel bred from them to 
the black females again, until the desired results were obtained. 
Some of the snappiest little birds I ever owned were Cuckoo 
Pekins and were produced by a direct cross of black and white 
Cochin bantams and I want to say no more beautiful and inter- 
esting variety lives, and as I said before, you have the necessary 
at hand to get busy, and I sincerely hope you will, and at the 
coming shows let us have again some bang-up, good cuckoosJ 
As a guide in case you should seriously consider my suggestion 
and take up cuckoos, I will give you the points of color in the 
Cuckoo Cochin bantam which I consider by far the most beauti- 
ful of them all. 

Comb, face, ear lobes and wattles — Bright red. 

Eyes — Red. 

Beak— Orange-yellow or yellow, slightly marked with corn 
color. 
'•>{•{!: Plumage — Light French gray-ground, every feather evenly 



86 

and distinctly barred across several times with dark slate. The 
rnarkings must be as fine and regular as possible, and the birds 
free from white and straw. 

Legs and feet — Sound orange-yellow. 

CHARLES T. CORNMAN, 

Carlisle, Pa. 




■ Red Pyle Game. Male. 



The Cochin or Pekin Bantams are bred in bufif, white, black 
and partridge and they should be cochins in miniature, with 
small, evenly and nicely serrated combs, broad chest, thick neck, 
with a short, broad back, with a nicely rounded cushion, with 
•legs very heavily feathered, right to the end of the middle toe. 
It is hard to say which of the four varieties are the most popular 
and extensively bred, as large classes in all are seen at the shows 
and the interest seems to be fairly well divided. Aside from the 
Games they are the most popular of bantams and many claim 
them to be equal in popularity to them. 

Popularity of the Cochin Bantam. 

Did you ever stop to notice in going through the show rooms 
what variety of bantams the general public usually stop and 
look at most, the kind that attracts the most attention? More 



87 

than once T have heard some lady exclaim, "Oh ! aren't they the 
finest birds you ever saw?" pointini;: to the row of buffs. Right 
they are ; there is no question about that. As setters and mothers 
there is no better. As I heard one fellow say : "They will set any 
place, on anything, and any length of time." Seldom breaking an 
egg or killing a chick, they have come to be the dependent birds 
of the pheasant breeders of the country, and they are the ones 
who value their eggs at long prices. As layers they are good, and 
some of you people who have not room to keep the large birds 
would do well to have a few to lay some fresh eggs instead of 
buying six months to one year, old cased eggs from the West. 
The cost of keeping a few is practically nothing. They require 
the least room of any of the bantams, a yard 10 x 15 being plenty 




Black Cochin Bantam Hen. 

of room for five or six. with a small dry goods box for a house. 
Now, let me say if you contemplate breeding a few birds for 
pleasure of fancy (and there is a lot of sport showing in the dif- 
ferent shows, winning occasionally, getting beat once in a while), 
you can make no mistake in starting with the grandest of all 
bantams — "Cochin." 

Brahma Bantams. 

The Brahma bantams are bred in both light and dark vari- 
eties, and like the Cochins, are miniatures of the standard birds, 
but are not as yet to their state of perfection, but the past 
several years has made marked improvements on them, and it 
will not be long until they show the same quality as the standard 
birds. One of the hard problems in breeding the bantams is to 



88 

keep them down in size. Many a bird, fine otherwise, has lost 
size. They are becoming very popular and are hardy and easy 
to raise. Good specimens command good prices and a ready sale. 

Booted Bantams. 

Booted bantams do not seem to be very popular and are not 
as extensively bred as any of the others. It is the opinion of 
those still breeding them that their merits and beauty are not 
appreciated as much as they should be. They are bred in black 
and white, both plain and muffed. Booted bantams resemble the 
Pekins very much. However, they are longer in the legs as well 
as carrying more abundant tail furnishings. They have a single 
comb, larger than the Pekin, short back, and the wings drooping, 
tail should be carried high, foot feathering should be of good 
length and the hock feathers should.be large and stiffer than the 
Cochins. 

Polish Bantams. 

The beauties of the miniature feathered world are the Polish 
Bantams and they are fast becoming general favorites. Whites 
are the most popular and bufif laced a close second. Like the 
standard breed their beauty is in crest and sprightly carriage. 
The crest of the male should be as large as possible, globular in 
form, rising upright from the beak and crescent shape in outline 
and the pullet very compact and round. 

The Japanese Bantams. 

The Japanese bantam is one of the prettiest varieties we have 
as well as one of the most popular. They are bred in different 
colors, the whites and black-tailed being the most popular. The 
Japanese bantams are a very peculiarly shaped bird. Their thighs 
and legs are so short that their bodies almost touch the ground. 
In fact, the lower down they are the better. Their wings are long 
and broad and carried downward. The tail should be carried in 
an upright position, as will be noticed by the illustration, erect 
head and prominent breast. They are easily raised and find 
a ready sale. 



89 



Game Bantams — Points of Most Value. 
By F. B. Zimmer. 



Perhaps if the question "What is the most desirable ([ualily 
in Game bantams?" was put to the average admirer of these 
interesting little birds, the answer would be spontaneous, "Sta- 
tion." We have come to this conclusion from our experience 
as judges for over twenty-five years, from conversation with 
scores of breeders of the different varieties of Game bantams and 
from visits to the yards of many breeders. We beg to dififer 
with all those of that opinion. However, for the good of Game 
bantams we are glad to say not all Game bantam breeders or 
fanciers are of the sort that consider a leggy bird a good or typi- 
cal bird. 




B. B. Red Game Bantam. Male. 

Station, good length of thigh and shank, is a very desirable 
quality, but that requisite in connection with a bird with a long, 
narrow body, long back or long wings that reach past the body, 
often cross points under the tail, or in fact any one of these 
objectionable traits or qualities never can be considered, or will 
be considered a high-class specimen by the real judge or critic. 
Yet we have noticed many times the blue ribbon on Game 
bantams at our best shows that were wider across the hips than 
at the shoulder and always this sort of bird is too long in back 
and body, and most assuredly does not taper from shoulder to 
stern, or he could not be widest at hips, the center of the body, 
but these winners had station, and were hard feathered, both cov- 



go 

eted qualities, yet his body and back very objectionable, should 
have placed him below the bird standing next or a few cages 
from him with wide shoulder, short back, tapering body, and 
short wings, well tucked up, that was not as long in thigh and 
shank. We claim that a Game bantam with pigeon wings alone 
can never, or should never, be considered in that charmed circle 
called high class. That no Game bantam is really "classy" that 
is too long in any one of these sections, viz. : Body, back or wings, 
regardless of how much station he may have or how grandly 
colored he may be. Nor one short in neck, with loose or long 
hackle, but that a bird (Game bantam) that has the heart shape, 
short body, short back, clean stern, short wing, long, clean 




Birchin Game Cock. 



neck and head, comes under the head of a really high-class speci- 
men, regardless of the fact that he is not just as "reachy" or 
exactly as clean in color as you would like, or as the Standard 
calls for "shape" makes him a classy representative of his breed. 
I am not on the circuit any more as a judge, but I am interested 
in Game bantams. Don't think I ever will forget Game bantam 
shape, and a bird to please me as a show bird, or a breeder, in 
my yards, must have Game bantam quality, or get out of my 
sight. No pigeon wings, or "swell box" bodies need apply, and 
should I ever consent to judge again at any of our shows, would 
advise exhibitors to leave that sort at home. 



A New Variety of Game Bantams. 
By B. C. Thornton. 



Concerninc^ Game 1)antams T think I will allow more abler 
pens than mine t(^ describe the different varieties. I will merely 
confine myself to a description of a new variety, and one. to my 
way of thinkinjj^, of the very handsomest in existence — the Lemon 
Blues. The Lemon Blues have been shown for a number of 
years at the Dairy and Crystal Palace ; now classes are made for 
them at the Palace Show. 

I will now endeavor to describe the beautiful colors of the 
Lemon Blues, the reader bearing in mind that this variety is 
distinctly modern in shape and style. A pullet of this variety 
was held in reserve for best Game bantam pullet in the show. 

The color of male : Face and eyes dark ; the neck hackle 
bright lemon striped with blue ; back, saddle hackle and wing, 
a bright golden lemon, very even in color — as near as I can get it 
to a lavender blue, each feather being finely laced around by a 
shade darker; the tail blue. F'emale : Face and eyes dark; neck 
hackle lemon striped with blue, breast and body color an even 
shade of lavender blue, each feather laced with a shade darker 
blue. We (Fincke &; Thornton) showed a trio of them at the 
recent New York show, and a pair at Boston. At bcjth shows 
they created a mild sensation ; their beautiful color, excpiisite 
shape and style making a handsome contrast to the blue of the 
male. The lacing on the feathers of the females exhibiting a 
decidedly striking effect. 

Malay Bantams. 

When one considers the great and intensely enthusiastic 
army of Game bantam breeders and notes the large exhibits of 
high-class specimens at the larger shows, he is impressed v.-ith 
the fact that although the Malay bantam is closely allied to a 
large extent, resembling them in shape, habit, hardness of feather 
and color, yet they are not popular and one scarcely ever sees a 
good specimen. They have many points that stand out as sepa- 
rate and distinct. To that grand old breeder and originator of 
bantams, Mr. W. F. Entwistle, England, we owe the variety 



92 

He stood alone in the fancy when on earth, and although he has 
passed to the great beyond these many years ago, no one has 
dared to even try on the shoes he put off. He was the original 
producer of all the varieties of Malay bantams, and to the best 
of my knowledge, all the birds now extant have sprung from the 
birds he bred down from the large varieties. 

They are bred in five varieties, whites, pyles, pheasant, dark 
red and bright red, and about the only ones we are familiar with 
on this side are the whites, pyles and dark reds. In shape they 
have the same characteristics that make the large Malays stand 
out as a grand old bird that glories in all that goes to make 
strength, fashioned in every part as the draft horse is fashioned. 




Silver Duckwing Game Bantam Cock. 



Good specimens are but slightly larger than exhibition Game 
bantams, but they are stouter built, with broader shoulders, nar- 
row sterns and drooping tails. They should all have orange yel- 
low legs and bills and strawberry combs with pearl eyes. The 
three drooping curves seen in the large Malay should be exactly 
reproduced in the bantam. The first colors to show up were the 
whites and black reds, and they have always remained the fav- 
orite. They are hardy, their eggs always hatch and I have always 
found the chicks hardy and easy to rear. They lay fewer eggs 
than the exhibition Game bantams, laying eleven or twelve eggs 
before wanting to hatch. You can count on three clutches each 
season. They make splendid mothers after the weather becomes 



93 

warmer or if kept in rather a warm brood coop, for the reason 
that they are so tightly feathered the chicks have but little to 
hover in. 

The greatest trouble with the whites is to get them pure 
white in color. They will come sandy, and if you breed from 
such a cock bird you will always regret it, for it is almost impos- 
sible to stamp it out. I have several times been asked how best 
to get first-class Malay bantams. The best way is to buy the 
best pen you can get and breed them. If you have time and 
patience you can make a cross of the large Malay on Game Ban- 
tams of the desired color, and by careful recrosses get what you 
want. You may try many times before you get fertile eggs, but 
the game is worth the candle if you have the patience. 

I shall not elaborate on the color markings, as almost every 
lover of Game Bantams is familiar with them. It has been with 
great sorrow that I have noticed this grand old breed dying out in 
this country. I imported and bred many fine specimens of these 
varieties, spending lots of good American dollars in my effort to 
gain popularity for this noble old breed. Is there not some one 
with sporting blood enough to take hold of them again? 

CHARLES T. CORNMAN. 



The Bantam for the Fancier, 
By F. D. E. Stowe. 

For the fancier no fowl fills the bill better than the Game 
bantam. I say the Game bantam because they are the variety 
I know the most about ; I speak from experience. A fancier, one 
whose main object is to breed to certain ideals, here finds him- 
self free from any pretense that he is breeding for eggs or poul- 
try, but goes to work to perfect a type. Here in the Game 
bantam is a world of opportunity to work along present require- 
ments, for while wonderful specimens have been produced there 
is a great field still to conquer. If we get the length of leg wished 
for then those abominable long wings are present, or perhaps 
the bird is narrow at the shoulders or stands with shoulders 
parallel with the tail. The bird should stand erect, and unless it 



94 

does this, it has no style. A Game bantam without style is only 
a mongrel. 

The Game bantam is a prize show bird. One must study 
him and learn to appreciate him as you do classical music, for 
instance, or painting, for he is a creature of art when perfected. 
The possibilities are many and years of breeding have left much 
to be attained, and taking him at his present standard, years will 
not have attained the ideal. The difficulty is the search of the 
fancier and utility stock is injured every year by some require- 
ments of the fancy. You can not ride two horses. Stock is 
either utility or fancy. By that is meant you make one the 
standard and will lose sight more or less of the other. The con- 
tinuous change of the type of the utility stock is an attempt to 
make more difficult the breeding and thereby give the fancier 
the sway. Then, too, in the bantams the expense of shipment, 
an item to be taken into consideration in showing stock, is com- 
paratively a small item. 

A small amount of room houses the little friends, for they 
are friends indeed. Under kind treatment they soon become a 
member of the family. They tame very easily. When it comes 
to wisdom, a thing the hen does not lay claim to, the midgets 
discount their large relatives by far. 

Another thing, although this is not said in derogation of 
other fanciers, the bantam fanciers are a high-grade lot of men 
to associate with. They are fanciers to the core and a meeting at 
a show finds men with a common interest making valued friend- 
ships. 

The Different Varieties of Game Bantams. 

Game bantams are in every sense of the word a fanciers' 
fowl and they are, as a whole, bred to a better state of perfection 
than any other variety. They are considered the most popular 
variety of bantams and the gilt-edge specimens command long 
figures. So keen is the rivalry and competition that ofttimes the 
best money can buy are imported from England. Game bantams 
are bred in a number of varieties, namely, black-breasted reds, 
brown reds, Birchens, golden duckwing, silver duckwing, pyle, 
black and white. The Black Breasted Reds seem to be the most 
popular as they breed very true to color and when properly 
mated a larger percentage of good birds is secured than in the 



9.5 

other varieties. It is claimed by some of the most reliable 
breeders that the best results are obtained from double mating. 
The duckwings are a very handsome variety and possibly come 
next to the B. B. Reds in popularity. The males are exception- 
ally handsome, the breast, thighs, tails, wing, butts and bars 
being black. The saddle, hackle and wing bow are silver or rich 
orange as to the name of the variety. 




Pyle Game Cock. 

Pyles also come in for their share of admiration. They should 
be a sound white in breast and tail and should be white in sec- 
tions where the B. B. Red is black; other sections should be 
colored same as the black and reds. The above description ap- 
plies to the male. The legs should be yellow instead of willow, 
as in the B. B. Reds. 

The Brown Reds and Birchens also have their share of ad- 
mirers and ofttimes as large classes are seen as in the other 
varieties. Black and Whites are not so popular, hence the 
quality is not as good as in the other varieties. 



96 



A Little Talk About Cleanliness. 

By Rev. Carl E. Peterson. 



"Cleanliness is next to godliness." A truism well known the 
world over, but sometimes we don't take into consideration that 
there are several kinds of cleanliness, and some of these not 
associated with our bodily welfare. 

Cleanliness in dealing with our customers, for every dirty 
transaction done will not only hurt the person who was re- 
sponsible for it, but the breed he handles, the rest of the breed- 
ers, and reflects on the whole poultry fraternity. 

Cleanliness in the showing of our birds, for here as else- 
where, a great deal of dirty work is done. A bird is faked out of 
all recognition to what it was before the faker took it in hand. 
Birds are still borrowed for show purposes, and returned after 
the show, and we have heard of one person who is willing to 
rent them out for the same purpose. 

It is a detriment to all honest competition and when found 
out it should not only be made notice of on the coop containing 
such faked or borrowed birds, but the exhibitor should be ex- 
cluded for at least one coming season from again exhibiting at 
the same show. 

Cleanliness in Breeding. 

It is dirty work to advertise a strain of birds as a strain of 
noted layers, or noted winners and then on the strength of this 
buy birds from all over the country, and send them out to unsus- 
pecting customers under the name of the strain advertised. 

Such work cannot be hidden, however, nor kept secret ; like 
murder, it will out, and it soon becomes common property among 
the rest of the breeders, who, we are glad to say in the great 
majority are not in the habit of doing business in this way. When 
a person simply sells thoroughbred stock at small prices, without 
any pretension as to quality, it is all right for him to get his stock 
wherever he can; he is a huckster, not a breeder; but when 
strong claims are made for the stock and then birds are bought 
wherever they can be gotten at a dollar or so a head and sent 
out at reckless prices, it spells ruin to the breed such a person 
represents and finally ruin to himself. 



97 
Cleanliness in Accepting Orders. 

It is dirty work to accept more orders than can be promptly 
filled ; it is dirty work to sell eggs for hatching and promise de- 
livery for March or April and then pay no further attention to 
the order, and ship the eggs as late as June and July at first-class 
prices. 

Cleanliness in the Handling of Our Stock. 

And it is a surprise why more troul^le does not come to the 
person who seems to liiink that of all unnecessary things clean- 
liness in the poultry yard is one of them. 

We have seen it in print lately where it was stated that the 
houses were cleaned twice a year, but that the birds were out 
of doors most of the time. I sliould not wonder a bit if they 
were, anything in the way of a chance to breathe would be 
healthier for a lien than this sort of an abode. 

We have always advocated cleanliness in houses and coops 
and we prefer to have them cleaned every morning, for we can 
see no reason why a hen should sleep over her own dung any 
more than a cow should stand in it for several days at a time. If 
the cow received the same treatment the average farmer's hens 
get, there would be less milk from her than there are eggs from 
hens thus treated. 

Cleanliness is a habit, and this habit should be indnlged in 
to its full extent. "Get the habit" and keep the building scrupu- 
lously clean ; wipe the cobwebs from the window panes and let 
the sun have free access; clean, clean again, and keep cleaning 
until things are as they ought to 1)e. and then keep them clean. 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



002 864 364 



